Been a little while, but with such a lovely day, I decided to get the bike roled out the garage for the first time, to see it in daylight instead of the flourescent tube of a garage, as has been witnessed for the last 11 months:
Levers and cables to be purchased next week and then I should be in a position to fire it up.
Need pillion and matching rider saddle covers, but I think it's nearly there, I've given myself to October but I hope to see a bit of the summer riding it?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi,Julian looking good. When you have cables fitted and fire it up I bet you have it finished before october
Once you hear it run you,ll want it finished.Just finished my B33 this is the last standard bike I,ll build then I,m onto building specials as price of original parts are getting scarce and scary plus I have enough standard bikes.I think a M20 is a good choice for a first rebuild much more satisfying than a bantam and a good supply of parts also you have a good site for information
Dave
Couldn't agree more Dave, an M20 is a great bike to restore as parts are available and you have a bit of leniency in the restoration as it isn't all chrome and the paintwork hasn't got to be that high a standard.
I know what your saying with the finish of this bike and think I will scream if it starts okay.
Would love to do another bike on the back of this, just have to hope the finish goes well with this one.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
A quick question.
Now that the bike has been re-wired and the original bike was unused since 1977, do I need to re-polarize the dynamo and is this something to be done just prior to trying to start the bike or could it get done now?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Thanks Doug,
Really good info, will be giving it a go next weekend.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Just been going through the old photos of the original build of my bike when I had it and interested to see how the Voltage Regulator was mounted to the mudguard. Should there be a nut (as seen in the snipped image of my original bike) between the regulator and the mudguard, or should the regulator get mounted straight to the mudguard?
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Thanks Leon, now that makes sense.
Will see what I can source.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Just machined some 15mm rubber tap washers with a 6.5mm hole to mount the regulator, next time i'm going to punch the hole out as drilling it in a collet chuck was just a little bit fiddly.
Will do the job nicely though and will at least mount the regulator safely.
Thanks again Leon.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Been a bit of a day with the exhaust down pipe finally re-worked with the new bracket that mounts it to the frame as the original bracket was to short by 15mm.
At last the down pipe fits and with the aid of the buffing wheel the stainless bracket has managed to polish up a treat.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
I like the bullit hits on your the side of your oil tank and toolbox...
Very nice job! I'm sure you'll get in on the road somewhere this season.
Regards,
Sven
email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com
You've got to keep a few of the battlescars on it, allows for a good yarn in a tavern somewhere I'm sure.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Finding this a very hard decision, do I get the stainless exhaust vapour blasted, it looks great as natural finish and can see it being allot easier to polish than when it's vapour blasted. Does it stay or does it go to the blasters?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Does anyone use Castrol Valvemaster Lead Replacement Petrol Additive to their fuel, and is it recommended for these bikes, hope to have mine running in the next couple of weeks and would like to ensure the fuel is going to be right from the start whilst running it back in.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian,
Just use unleaded 95 regular gas. No additions needed.
These bikes run on 'salad oil'. Keep in mind that these bikes were used in times when fuel was scarce and were of poor quality, so they run on octane 65 if nothing better is available. Therefore you will ask for problems if you keep the margins of moving engine parts too narrow like some 'modern minded experts' try to achieve....they're just constructed for all circumstances and easy maintenance.
You will also find out that this side valve engine will get so bloody hot that it frightens you......no worries just get used to it.
Regards,
Sven
email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com
Thanks Sven,
Really good to know as I have never seen or had any experience of this bike actually running.
Saves allot of hassle messing aroound with additives, so again thanks for the detail.
I was thinking this engine is going to get very hot, being air cooled, are there any tell tale signs to be wary of if you are in traffic and it starts getting too hot, reason I'm asking this is that there is a very large bike run in Octoboer that I would like to join in with, but I know it's a slow process getting all 5000 bikes out the service station carpark onto the motorway, and even my GSXR 1000 had the fan running continuously to keep cool, Harleys would continusuously have to stop and cool down while they wait for some movement.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Don't worry Julian,
Just think of all the DR's in WW2 who had to lead a very slow convoy in the desert of North Africa. I suggest you read the books 'a civillian in uniform,''Commando Despatch Rider,' and 'To war on two wheels' to get an idea of how things went back then. For your protection you can wear high boots or even better, original DR boots..it's looks nicer too!
The only issue you will struggle with (like we all do) is that E10 is added to modern fuel. E=Ethanol and it attracks water and water=rust. So if you don't use your bike for a while or add fresh fuel you can expect some nasty like leakages or solving tank coatings..
However, BP Ultimate and Shell V-Power don't have E10 added so for your 10 trips around the block you know what to do....
Regards,
Sven
email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com