As I keep pointing out, some days with the restoration of a bike are better than others, today is a nice day, to return home and find the delivery of the exhaust and long awaited Dunlop K70 tyres.



The wiring loom is now in place and looks pretty good.

The exhaust still needs a bit of tweeking though to get it to fit properly and I'm still looking for the locknut 26-2861 for the rear wheel, before I can fit the tyres and balance the wheels.

I'd like to point out a little fact here as well, when I had the bike it was fitted with a Duinlop K70 tyre on the front with perfect tread, but had been fitted on the bike since 1977, I removed the original tyres and binned them in the knowledge that if a tyre is more than 10 years old then the rubber turns hard and looses its traction, now I have received these new tyres I'm delighted that I made that choose as these tyres are so much more subtle and pliable, you can instantly tell the difference. Always be cautious when installing old tyres as they won't give the necessary traction and could be like riding on ice if your not careful.

All in all I've had worse days and starting to see the bike taking shape at last.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian

I notice you have been busy at wiring

Have you got any photos of this laid out on frame etc

I would like to rewire mine hopefully before France with this rubber coated stuff

Best regards

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

That's looking really good

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

M20's tend to be like that Dave

:-D

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

John there's not really much to know about fitting the wiring to the frame:- From your regulator to dynamo, take the shortest neatest route. Any cables that go to the headlamp are simply taped to the under tank tube and are then rubber covered from the tank to headlamp past the left side of the fork spring. A single cable from headlamp to tail lamp is I think officially located down the right side rear frame. But if adding a stop lamp switch it's easier and neater to combine it all on the left side. Extra cables like dip switch horn and battery are all fairly obvious. I don't think there is any point in trying to make a pre made loom. Just lay each cable individually to it's destination and fit the rubber sleeving before connecting into the head lamp. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ron

I have no problem with wiring, connections aspect etc, but would like to rewire mine as it left the factory

I have seen some comments that these bikes left BSA with wires loosely routed and secured only at certain vulnerable points, nothing like the nice and tidy looms we see fitted or made available these days. It's the original harness routing I'm looking for Ron, not my judgement on a neat install.

Would dearly love to see an original loom laid out or a photo of one

I know Henk has shown the headlight he acquired some time ago, I suppose this will be the basis of inspiration

Best regards

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Hi John,

I brought the rubber coated black wire and have used a 700C bicycle rubber inner tube for the 3 main wires exiting the headlight and running under the tank, just to protect from fraying, I also have a nice assorted colour pack of neoprene sleeves that I've just cut cut to length and mark each wire acordingly to give the genuine look (all in accordance with the BSA service sheet 808).
The ony cheat is inside the battery box, where I have crimped on a couple of spade connectors to link to the cyclone battery (but no one will ever see that hopefully).
Hope to get some pictures together as I also struggled sourcing any decent photos at first, but as Ron says it isn't that taxing and is just one of those jobs that you have to do to get a feel for what goes where.
So long as you can make it neat then everyone is a winner.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Great to have the tyres mounted on the rims and front wheel now mounted with ease (no mis-alignment on the forks), hope the rear wheel will be as good but still trying to source the hub locknut 26-6861(left hand thread) that is proving to be a bit of a pain as the supplier to Draganfly isn't able to state when they will receive the stock, might be easier to buy a tap and machine my own at this rate?




Just need to fabricate a new front lug for the down pipe on my stainless exhaust (as the one supplied was to short), get levers and cables then repair my rear pannier carrrier frame to accept the original style pillion seat.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Julian
Try Bill Green in NSW bbg34@optusnet.com.au I just sourced a complete assy from him can't garuntee he has any more but he is worth a try for a nut only.


Cheers

email (option): Grumpy.moran@gmail.com

Thanks Ron,

Bill Green has the parts in stock and very helpful, he's posting tomorrow so again many thanks for your recommendation, it's moments like this that make this forum great.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian,great rebuild,watching with interest.Russell motors are listig your part at £4.00,give them a fax
cheers rick

email (option): richardholt@rocketmail.com

Julian
Bill is generally my first port of call for parts and only if he can't supply do I go elsewhere

Ron

email (option): Grumpy.moran@gmail.com

Great pics of your rebuild. Where did you get the fuel lines..they look brand new?

email (option): Jeff@infinitymedspa.com

The fuel lines were the original copper pipes that polished up with brasso.
Thanks for your comments though jeff.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

I've just been looking through the forum and see a few posts with the same query as me, in regards to the rear wheel mounting.
As I have a new chain, is it easier to mount the sprocket/brake plate to the frame then lift the wheel into position and bolt it to the wheel once all in situ, or do I need to split the chain and re-join once the wheel is in place?
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

I've just been looking through the forum and see a few posts with the same query as me, in regards to the rear wheel mounting.
As I have a new chain, is it easier to mount the sprocket/brake plate to the frame then lift the wheel into position and bolt it to the wheel once all in situ, or do I need to split the chain and re-join once the wheel is in place?
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

The three wheel nuts for the QD arrangement have a tendency to come loose. I much prefer the safer option of putting them in with Loctite (Tightly) and remove the whole lot, and rather only undo them for bearing maintenance etc. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron,

Loctite it is then.
I saw on the assembly drawings that a spring washer is shown in betweenn the bolt and the sprocket, as the sprocket has 3 countersunk holes and the bolts have a tapered shank, I couldn't figure that one out, but Loctoite will replace any need for spring washers.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Julian the early version was even worse, with flat shoulder bolts. BSA modified them with the now familiar dished wheel nut version. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com