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The WD Motorcycle forum
I'm thinking about further M20 machined parts at the moment..and will also consider parts for bikes other than the M20 if the demand is there.
Anything I do will be stainless steel if the original was plated as I feel it is a practical substitute for cad. plating when blasted...I'm very interested in what forum members think might be worth looking at...Viability for manufacture can be determined later..initially it is sensible suggestions I am after...things that are hard to find etc....though I need to be able to find original examples as patterns of course...
At the moment I am planning to make the gear indicator plate for the M20 and am considering wheel nuts, cylinder head bolts and a few other parts...Any suggestions?..Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Wheel spindles.
Hub conversions to roller bearings
Repair kits for speedo drives
Fork rebushing kits
I would buy one of everything above.
email (option): Gasboy@btinternet.com
Hi Peter...Thanks for your comments..I believe Dave Plumbs mate is making the rear wheel spindles for the M20..not completed yet though. For the bearing conversion do you mean the front wheel of an M20?..Rear wheel taper bearings can be replaced with a cheap and available modern equivalent...(brg.no. 30204)...
Replacement of the speedo drive components would require helical gear cutting, hardening and grinding facilities etc....Expensive and complicated to make, so really a non starter for small batch replication.
NOS Fork bushes are available from Russell motors, plus other fork parts...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I'm on the lookout for front and rear hubs for a 1930s Matchless Model X, complete with axles, bearings, brakes and so on, if you fancy a real challenge next Ian?
. Though if you can get patterns I can put you in touch with a company that will make them...for a price...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Sorry Ian, I thought that would be just a couple of hours work for you? I can't actually think of anything else I need at the moment, which is a fatal thing to say, something is bound to go bang now! I'm very surprised you haven't been inundated with suggestions for stuff.
I'm thinking of batches of parts rather than one off individual requirements..rather like the parts I have already made..I'm sure there will be a few things to do....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I think there is a market for stainless steel with the following:
15-7092 Rear Spindle nut
15-1455 Front and raar brake pivot nuts (Can't find these at present anywhere)
15-6737 Front Spindle nuts
These would be great in Stainless.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
How about rear stand bolts and those funny screw headed bolts for the top of the front mudguard.
Rob
email (option): robmiller11@yahoo.co.uk
I don't need one at present, but an often sought after quality part is a rear stand. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
How about unplated saddle springs with the correct poundage on the springs?
email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com
I was thinking about get oil pump bodies CNC'd out of billet aluminum.
If anyone is interested.
I was also toying with the idea of getting parts for the combination control levers cast.
Fork links
Mudguards and stays
email (option): Darrenacartwright@yahoo.com.au
What about the little knurled brass nuts that hold the rocker cover on the Matchless engine?
email (option): n.gentner@bigpond.com
M20 Regulator and saddle spring stand offs?
Hi Ian.
There seems to be a dia shortage of oil filter caps part number 66-8358 & springs. When I spoke to Les at Russell's he said he has been asked for these several times & thinks that they perhaps got thown away when the owners where changing filters, such a cheap item, pressed steel but a neccessary piece, in my opinion.
TTJohn
email (option): Jomichael@aol.com
Oooh yeah oil filter caps, they're always missing.
might I also add, those serrated gearbox mounting washers.
email (option): spacemonkeym@gmail.com
i know i am probably trying to teach you how to suck eggs but check in the bottom of the oil tank i found one in the oil tank sometime ago
email (option): roger.beck@node6.com
I made one of those gear indicator plates from Stainless sheet & formed it over an old taper roller bearing outer race. happy with it for own use except stamping the numbers into the stainless took a surprising amount of effort & result was not ideal.
I do suspect a high reject rate at the factory of those as my original one has a slightly wonky 4 :D

Hi Fred...That's a nice job for a handmade home workshop improvisation...I have a few of the original discs and as you say there are definitely variations in the quality of the stamping.
I plan two changes which shouldn't have too much impact visually (if any)..I have a more accurate method of producing the disc itself and the numbers will be machine engraved, not stamped. (In the same font style)...Accepting the originals varied and there were accurate and inaccurate examples I'm thinking most people would like one of the accurate ones!....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
email (option): Grumpy.moran@gmail.com
Hi Ron...30204 is the number for a modern taper roller that fits directly in place of the original bearings in the back wheel..Personally I have never fitted alternative bearings to the front wheel as I fitted some NOS ones and still have another pair I haven't used yet..Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
A crank lock ring would be the dog's bollocks. I'm thinking a lockring to fit over the end of the crank nut to keep it from shifting during running.
That's my two cents (two .02 euros for you eurozone folks).
Two British Pounds here in the UK Kevin...
...Do you mean the crankshaft shock absorber nut?...If you do, there is a tab washer (lockwasher) available for that purpose....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi Ian, yep... I do mean the shock absorber. Yeah, I recall that there's a tab washer, but I have my crank nut on already and a locknut would allow me to avoid removing it, as I don't have an air wrench in my garage. Last time I needed to use an air wrench, it meant loading up the bike. A lock nut would allow me to leave everything in place.
I'll use the search function to find the tab washer number.
Kevin in Sunny Los Angeles
Gearbox studs and adjuster kits with the serrated washers would be popular I'm sure. Aways missing with basket cases.
For the M20, how about...
Front tank mounting cups and top hat sleeves (Pt nos 27-8447, 27-8449)
Shouldered rear mudguard bolts (holding the front & rear mudguard sections together)
Rear chain adjuster screw (66-4620)
Gearbox adjuster nut (15-5664)
Saddle pillar bolts
Rear mudguard bottom bridge bolt nut (15-447) (rear mudguard stay shouldered nuts)
Steve Plumb
email (option): steveplumb1@sky.com
I think we might be draining Ian's brain! Best we let him sit back and consolidate!
Don't worry Douglas...I have made a list as each posting has been made and I can consider each suggestion at my liesure...Some of the things aren't viable cost wise or because the demand would be miniscule..others are already available from Russells or Draganfly etc. and there isn't room for too many suppliers in a small market...However, some of the parts suggested will be viable and worth doing, particularly for those who don't mind (or want) a material upgrade to stainless or who can't get cadmium plating done and want a good, durable substitute for it....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Was there ever any progress on the carb connection for Vokes filters?
Hi Doug...I think Ron Pier is involved with that...put up a new posting on the subject so that he will see it...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi Ian,
I would be interested in one of the Gear indicator plates.
Could you let me know how much they are.
Thanks Mate.
Cheers.
Anthony.
email (option): anthonye1963@hotmail.com
Hi Anthony...That's one of the parts I am going to make..I'll be in touch when it's all worked out...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Don't have an M20;Got an Enfield WDCO and Ariel WNG running.
canvas grips ?
unplated saddle springs (that I can paint easier) ?
decent seat covers
The late lighting switch under the seat (and the press button one on the headlamp)
email (option): madoc500@hotmail.com
WDm20 rear stands I would buy 5 if they were made like the original and not the Indian ones that break your frame.
Come on Ian you can do it.
I agree about the
Gearbox adjuster bit.
Cant find one anywhere
yea the gearbox adjuster and all washers and stuff
Bit late on this one I know, but how about 'conversion kits' of sufficient bits to alter front brakes from cable to cable and rod? Brass bar end caps - easy enough to make if you have a lathe, but if you haven't then...
email (option): cruiserchooser@hotmail.co.uk
As it happens I am just organising the loan of the front brake rod parts with a view to making some...Bar end plugs were cadmium plated mild steel so blasted aluminium or stainless would be more appropriate than brass. I may do some of these when I do the next batch of bars....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I'd like to put in for a pair of bar plug ends. I could use some.
I would be interested in a sump guard for a 1941 Wm20 if you are considering making some of them . Thanks Jeff
email (option): m90disco@fsmail.net
Hi Jeff..I have made these before periodically..Once I have cleared the current batch of jobs I'll be making them again. Probably late June time..I'll put a posting on the forum when they are about to be made....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I'm now looking with very little success, for a short pillion seat cover.
BirminghamtoBerlin.com were making canvas covers but no longer have any stock, Dave Plumb has no stock, can you help with this?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
I had R.K. Leighton make one for me. I provided him with seat frame measurements, and some photos,and it turned out very well.
Thanks Doug,
Just found them on Google, looks the real deal and a quality product.
Kind regards,
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com