Hi y'all,
Now that I've reached the stage of a regular ride to work on the old warhorse I'm keen to restore the C number on the tank . I'd like to do it as the classic WD 'stencil' type design and the way I see it there are four options (I have the stencils):

1. Lightly pencil through the stencils and then hand paint (possible lack of finish quality)
2. Spray through the stencil in the usual way (but non flat surface will probably lead to bad over spray and rubbish finish - if I stick the stencil to the tank I worry about it 'bleeding' at the edges but this may be my technique - ie, hold the spray can further away?)
3. Purchase stick on letters/numbers (but they need to be good quality - do these exist?)
4. Pay someone (signwriter?) to do it locally

I appeal to the sages of the forum - what's the best way to do it?

email (option): Kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

Buy your low tack stencils here. http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/


That's what I do. Ron

PS. I see they have used my G3L in their gallery.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I tried this method last time, it sounds a bit bodgey, but it worked well for me. I printed my Cencus Number out using the computer printer, cut around the numbers using a scalpel to make a stencil and then stuck the stencil to the tank using a glue-stick for paper. This gave me a sticky stencil that went around all the curves, I then rolled the white paint on with a small sponge roller. As the stencil was stuck on with paper glue, any residue just washed off with soap and water.

I used to get an arty mate to cut mine out like that Bill. Then use special low tack spray mount. But for the few quid involved, I just buy them from Axholm Signs. They are Father and Son and very helpful and make any style you want with an email picture for approval before dispatch. I then mask up and spray with mat white from a rattle can Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Guys - Brilliant.
Ron the style in your pic is perfect so I think I'll do the Axeholme thing. I guess you have to make sure the edges are well stuck down and then not hold the spray can too close to avoid the edge-bleeding?
What style of stencilling is that?

email (option): Kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

Kimble if it's the style you want just send them the picture. I have done a few of these now and got quite used to preparing them on the double curvature of a tank. Where the stencil puckers up on the curve, I slice through it with a Stanley blade to let it over lap. You can probably see from the picture. Yes keep the can at right angles to the job and about 12" away and don't put it on to thick. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I was going to use these folks Ron, I've seen their stencils on their website and on various vehicles and they look great. For the work involved in making my own, I'd probably go to them next time, but it was interesting to see how I got on making my own.

Well I have to admit that I was keen to have a go doing it myself but afetr looking at the picture of your finished product Ron....Sold!
I see that Axeholme will do me a pegasus too - perfect!
I'll let you know how it goes

email (option): Kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

Ooh - one other point I could do with some advice on:
I am told that WW2 British Airborne stencilling was done in light blue instead of white. Can anybody confirm this? anybody got any piccies?
many thanks chaps....
Kimble

email (option): kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

Hi Kimble

My M20 is in "Airborne" at the moment with blue numbers and I quite like it, but I don't think there is any evidence that it was ever done on vehicles smaller than a jeep, in fact I believe the few airborne lightweight bikes which have been found in original paint/markings have all had white c numbers.

But its your bike and no one can prove its wrong which ever colour you choose.

Rob

email (option): robmiller11@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks Rob,
Yes I do like the light blue - I think we'll have a kind of matched pair before long!
I spoke with the Airborne Forces museum and the official word is that British Airborne forces were allowed to use light blue, however, the variable availabiliity of paint was such that both light blue and white were used.
Like you I prefer the light blue - do you remember what colour you used and where you got the paint?
K

email (option): kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

The Ministry of Supply ledgers indicate that from late 1940 onwards, census numbers were applied by the factories prior to despatch (in the case of M20s, generally to the Base Ordnance Depot, Chilwell). 1/- per machine seems to have been the going rate for the signwriter's skills.

Subsequent distribution was in the hands of the Ordnance Depot but it would seem highly likely that the machines were delivered ex-works with white lettering and indeed delivered to units in that condition.

email (option): robmiller11@yahoo.co.uk