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Latest on the Old Warhorse

Dear All,
Just a quick update on my trials and triibulations...
The main news is I appear to have solved the mysterious "tight engine" problem.
Following a strip down and rebuild I was careful to ensure thatL:
A. The primary chain was ciorrectly tensioned, and
B. The cush-drice nut wasn't murder tight
...and this seams to have done the trick. I'm not sure whether A or B was mainly responsible (scientifically I should have changed only one variable at a time but this would've been impractical) but she now fires up very easily and sounds very regular and solid when running.
The gearbox (as mentioned in a previous post) is ok but there is a small leak from the layshaft end bush so I will replace these in due course. Amazing how a tiny thing like putting oil in the gearbox improves things!
Anyway - appropriately enough for today's date me n the old girl are in love again so I'll get on with the C number, Reg Insignia and general TLC.
Ian, If you see this - I have been trying to contact you re the parts we spoke about. Are you on the same phone nr and email address? - If so I look forward to speaking to you soon!
That's all folks - here's hoping for some good riding weather soon!
Kimble

email (option): Kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

Good new Kimble. However I don't think it's really possible to over tighten the cush drive nut. It must be tight otherwise it can come undone. Best to use some Loktite also.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

Hi Kimble, as Ron says the shocker nut needs to be tight as it traps together the 2 drive side bearings and the spacer between the bearings also the oil flinger. This is why you see lots of worn oil flingers and undersize bearing spacers at autojumbles. The oil flinger and the spacer wear as the bearing inner races creeps on the shaft because they are not locked tight enough with the shock nut. Try tightening the shocker nut up tight and see if this tightens the engine, if it does look at the drive side bearing spacer to see if its the correct length.

Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

And this spacer must be 1" or plus 5 thou. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

OK thanks guys I'll crank up the cush drive a bit more (any idea of a torque setting?).
I was thinking that as long as it was sufficiently tight to avoid the two halves of the cush drive 'leaping' over the individual peaks of the tringles then it can't come undone - surely this is the case?
It does sound like it was the chain tension though - it's so much easier now!
any word on Ian? are you guys in contact with him? I can't seem to raise him at all (must be something I've said!!)
Kimble

email (option): Kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

Kimble it's the momentum of the engine that flings these nuts undone. Bit like why lorry wheel nuts on the N/S have a left hand thread. I know of no Torque setting and it would be awkward anyway because of the style of nut. That's why I suggested Loktite as a safety factor. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

Hi Kimble...I'm here on the forum regularly and have a few manufacturing jobs underway but have ceased doing any engine/gearbox rebuild work and regular spares supply, as I am in the process of restructuring to a different way of earning a crust.. ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Latest on the Old Warhorse

Hi Ian,
Good to see you're still around.
OK understood - earning a crust is one of those things that has to be done but just always gets in the way eh?!
I don't want to cause any inconvenience but if I could email you about those bits we discussed I'd be grateful?
Kimble

email (option): Kimble.west@bridgezoneltd.co.uk

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