Hey folks,

Just wonder what tricks you guys have used to remove and replace the kickstarter.

It's the ol' two steps forward, one step back for me today. I finally sussed out the adjustment on the clutch on my 43/44 WM20, and neglected to finish putting in the cotter (like a dumbass). Got the clutch working well, but in the process, the kickstart cotter is no longer aligned to flat on the kickstart shaft.

So, I gotta remove and replace it. Naturally, I'd like to do so without destroying the cover.

Any suggestions? Use a puller? How do you replace it without hammering it on the shaft. Seems like that would put some stress on the quadrant and other bits.

Kevin

Last time I used a punch tool but left the nut on just enough to protect threads just in case

Once it moves undo the nut and carefully tap out the cotter as before

That's what worked for me anyway, there are most likely better methods

Make sure you secure it properly & well, I have seen one break before & the look on the chaps face was if he had been shot

He didn't walk without a limp for weeks !!!

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Thanks, John.

Follow up question: How do you get the cotter back in there while the transmission is on the bike? There is not a lot of room to hammer that new cotter in there.

Hi Kevin,

Make sure that you have the flat against that on the quadrant shaft and also rock the kick start a little as you push the cotter pin in. If you insert it from front to back then once it locks you should be able to kick it over a little to rotate it so that the head of the pin is facing upwards. Now you should be able to tap it through until you can get the nut and washer on the other end at which point it's best to pull it up tight with the nut.

Cheers,
Bernie

email (option): bernie.a.jones@gmail.com

Thanks Bernie... Mine is a bit tight. I can just tap it through the kickstarter with it off the bike, but it takes some force. I guess I'll have to use a few judicious passes with a file and some emery cloth.

Kevin

Hi Kevin...The cotter pins rarely seem to fit straight in correctly...and you won't be able to force (read hammer) it in if it isn't 'fitted' correctly.
First, as noted, make sure the pin is an 'easy' but not loose fit in the kickstart lever, filing to fit as required.
Next check the fit of the kickstart on the shaft, without the cotter pin. Again it should slide on without applying force. If the area of the shaft around where the cotter pin fits is damaged you will need to clean that up with an oilstone as the shaft is too hard to file.
Finally try the fit of the cotter pin with the kickstart fitted. If it doesn't go far enough through, in other words there is not enough thread showing, you then have to file the angled part of the cotter to allow it to enter further.
Be careful at this stage not to 'overdo it'...File it a little, try it, then file it a little more.
You need to get the cotter in so that it is nearly in far enough and a light tap with a hammer will 'drive' it the rest of the way...
The secret is to go progressively and carefully at the job, trying the fit and maybe a light tap with the hammer when know you are getting close....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi All
Ian just beat me there and further to what he says my understanding of cotter pins is that the head is supposed to lead and the tail with the nut on follows so that the force on the pin tends to cam the pin in tighter. This means the nut should face the front of the bike when the kickstart is up. This was the way I was taught when making bicycles in the 1950s (Knight Cycle and Pram Works – Dunedin). Not sure what is shown in the M20 parts book but the R60 BMW parts assembly diagrams agree with the head leading on the kickstart lever. Tap/press it in and check after kicking a few times to make sure its really tight. If the pin is very tight check for burrs at the ends of the hole where someone has hammered the old one out.
Keep up the good work
Regards
Doug W

email (option): watsond@xnet.co.nz

Good point Doug, which I'm in agreement with but forgot to mention.. ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com