Hi all

over the years i have had 2 6 volt horns on my bike, modern type painted black, none of which have worked well.

In times of mot, I'm glad the tester didn't want the bike running as you wouldn't have heard it

My battery is a 4.5A gel type, which should be enough in current terms to drive it

Can anyone recommend a modern 6v horn I can get that will work, be heard, I could consider a 2nd battery in parallel to up the current available if needs be

I have just picked up an original body so I would like to put it in there hidden away

Any suggestions ?

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

If the non working horn is a Lucas Altette you can take apart and remove the inside, turning out on a lathe is good if not as I did for a friend drill holes in the casting inside and knock it out with a chistle, fit a cheap small horn inside, cut the diaphram away "so the sound can get out" enough that it is held by the screws once the disc is fitted you will hardly see it.

Hi John, I understand that it’s not original,
So if you like to put another new horn,
I would recommend original WW beetle horn, (I think it’s Bocsh, usually)
The WW beetle horns are usually very loud and reliable.
Your current battery is OK, as long as it is in good condition and so is the charging system.


Another thing I would check is the wiring:

The horn can draw as much as 7-8 amp, and there is a huge effect to the condition and length of the leads:
The system should have one permanent (+) connected to one horn port,
And the (-) is provided from the chassis when pressing the horn switch.
(Of course it is the other way round if use positive chassis system)

The lead from the battery to the horn should be as short as possible, and best if goes from the battery, not via the ammeter,
And same goes for the lead from horn switch. I used a bit thicker leads there, and operated 2 horns at ones with no problems at all.
I know that it is not the original setup, but safety first…

You can check if the blame for low or no horn is from the electrical system
by trying to connect the horn directly to the battery with jumper cables momentarily, to test.

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Horns, brake light switches and speedos...the bane of my life as none of them seem to work for very long when regularly used...I use a VW horn on my B33 as well and have found it to be reliable (though not original and it won't fit inside an Altette)..I plan to use one on my M20 when I rebuild it and will mount it behind the panniers...The Lucas horn will be present only for correct appearance......Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

What usually knackers the Lucas horns is the lack of use, after a period of time the points get a thin film of corrosion on them, I find the best way to get them going is to drop it on the floor (seriously) and then use a 12volt battery on it for a few seconds, this seems to overcome the corrosion then put it back on 6 volt and tune it for the best tone using the small single screw on the back. Don't try to mess with the small screw under the big nut as this can throw the whole setting out again, then you'd have to do a lot of experimenting to get it to ever make a noise again!

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Hi folks

Thanks for the info

I really want to fit one inside my original body, so will look for one at next jumble

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

If you are going to fit a horn inside you might find it cheaper to get a Clear Hooter a copy of a Lucas, if you have an old Lucas rim to put on and change the screws to domed studs you won't tell the difference. I have some old rims and studs if you need them.

WD Altette's didn't have the domed studs. Just ordinary slotted machine screws.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ron,
Does your horn get mounted with 2 1Ba slot heads, as my horn has 4 2Ba screws bolting it together but not sure what the 2 screws are that mount it to the bracket.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Julian, from memory, there are four screws of a smaller size and the two fixing screws are larger with nuts. I'd say either 0BA or 1/4" BSF. But I'd need to do some checking to be sure. But have a look at Taffs site. Lots of information, even if it doesn't answer your immediate question. http://taffthehorns.com/

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ron,

After a bit of digging around I found the original slot heads.
4 are 2BA and the 2 mounting screws are 1/4" BSF.
I'm trying to source new screws from Taff The Horns, but their contact info is a little vague and I await a response.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Hi Julian...Check very carefully that it is 1/4" BSF (or cycle)...0BA is 25.38 tpi and has an OD of .236...very close to both of the threads above. The studs on the back of the speedo that hold it to the bracket are also 0BA...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

This is the email address I have for Taff. lynn.isaac@tinyworld.co.uk

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ian & Ron,
Thankfully I still have all the original screws in the horn and hence the horn hasn't seen anything else.
I've just checked and my horn and it is a 1941 version and has 2 off slot head screws, 1/4" BSCY threads with the remainder being 1BA.
A useful website link I have found is :

http://www.voc.uk.com/net/docs/12/12-520-16.pdf

Taff the horn has been very helpful but he is a very busy man

I haven't got a suitable power supply as yet to supply the 6-10 amp feed at 6 volts and will wait till I have a battery, to be sure if my horn works, as there was no battery on the bike when I collected it.

It is a little more of an art than what you first see.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com