Today it's been like Xmas all over again after collecting my long awaited final parts from the powder coaters.

I've had to learn some lessons in patience during this restoration, The long hours and hard work with leading the tank to get rid of all the old dings along with the careful cleaning to remove all the rust pits, followed by the nervousness of putting the tank through the powder coating process (expossing the lead on the tank to 180 degrees C) has thankfully paid off and I'm over the moon with the end result as the lines and curves look really uniform and clean.If you see the photos of the bike in Part 2 or Part 1 of my restoration, you'll get a better idea just how bad the tank was.
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After calling Ron a bugger in part 2, I need to apologise and thank Ron for his great photos detailing the field stand clip, as now I have had the clip back from paint and the fit is spot on. I don't think the stand would ever of held in place with the original clip someone must of made prior to me having the bike.

Another part I had to purchase was the engine stay, that wasn't fitted on the bike when I received it, but again today it's returned from powder coat and after a little adjustment (slackening off all the engine tie bolts), managed to get it to fit. Again I'm chuffed to bits that the bike is beginning to look right.

What I really needed and thankfully now have back is the gearbox mounting plate spacers along with the rear mudguard spacers, these spacers have stopped me in my tracks for a little while as I didn't want the gearbox mounted until these were in place.

Still a bit of a way to go yet but loving every minute.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

That is going to be one great bike, good job.

Does this powder coat have a RAL number?

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Thanks Henk for all your support,

The colour is a BS number: BS381C 224, Deep Bronze Green Gloss.
I wasn't sure on the colour at the start but as the bike is coming along it has an interesting appearance that grabs you with the various shades that it generates.

Looks better in person than the pictures portray.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Just returned home to find a letter from the BSA Owners Club giving me all the detail they have on my bike.
The date of my bike is 1945 and was despatched to the war office under contract S7218 in a batch of 5870 bikes.
The finish was matt olive drab, so my colour is incorrect that I have done it to now, but still I prefer it to the purple it was before.
Where I'm a little disapointed is in the statement that my bike should of given the serial number C5890201. Henk has provided the documentry evidence to show my bike was registered as C5891634, I hope this is right as I don't want to spray the wrong number on the tank.
What is good news is that I have all the documentary evidence to keep its original registration as YCJ529, DVLA here I come.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Couldn't resist, had to fit the tank to get an idea what it would look like. As Ron has said in the past, you can work on these bikes and seem to be getting nowhere then all of a sudden it all comes together.



Still got to spray the contract number, then all paint work complete for now.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian,

Your tank number has to end with the last two numbers of the frame number as for the last contracts they did. The tank number given by the BSA club can't be correct because of this. As far as I can see, frame number WM20 122534 should have C5891634 as tank number.

The BSA OC UK doesn't have half the information we have here on the forum. I know that for frame numbers over WM20 69699 they just don't have enough information to be able to make a suitable dating certificate at all.

Your BSA is in the key cards we have also with C5891634 as tank number. We do know that the information in the key cards isn't always 100% reliable but we have enough information to check this.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Thanks Henk,
I have to say that I was a little disappointed with the information that the BSA Owners Club provided, as the evidence you provided at the start is a lot more comprehensive and also had documentary evidence to support. The last 2 numbers also makes sense, I never realised that till you poinrted it out.
thanks for your support and it's a credit to you for your comprehensive database you hold for all this M20 information, we would be lost without you.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Just a quick question on my fuel tank, why is mine this shape in comparison to the bike below that has engine & frame number 122453 in comparidson to mine 122534?
When and why did they change the tank design?

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

That is a 1939 / 1940 tank, so actually wrong for a late war BSA. Your bike should have a tank with the cut-away for a Vokes filter as you have it, it probably even left the factory with a Vokes filter fitted as most of the late war bikes did.


Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Another quick question, is there anyone out there who sells stainless wire to thread through the bolts in order to lock them off, my original wire all crumbled to dust when I removed it from the primary chain case cover and fuel tank bolts.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

You could try stainless MIG wire, that's what I used last time.

Cheers Pat

Great idea, thanks Pat.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Sorry for being a pest, but another bit of info required please:

I've got all I need now to spray the contract number on the tank with the stencils and rubber knee grips with mounting backing plates, but is there a correct position for this number to go?
The stencil will fit between the knee grip and the front mounting lug which at least then has the number on the side of the tank, or should this number go above the knee grips.
Haven't really seen any consistency in any photos for the position of the contract number on the tank, so does anything go?
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian,

The best way is to find a war time photo with a tank number closest to yours and copy that.

As your bike is late war it most likely didn't had tank knee rubbers as in this photo.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

should have new chains and all the cork and felt gaskets for attachment of the primary chaincase cover and clutch this week, a quick question though, should the gasket between the crankcase and primary chaincase cover (held on by 3 bolts and locked with wire) have joint compound applied to both faces or will a new gasket be sufficient to seal?

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian..I always put silicone on both sides. Also, the bolt heads aren't much bigger than the slots in the back of the inner casing..It is very easy to distort the back of the cover when the bolts are tightened. I make slightly longer bolts and 'thick washers' of the largest diameter you can get in there to avoid this problem..Take care when tightening the bolts as well...don't go too mad as you might strip the threads in the crankcase. I always helicoil these three when the engine is apart (it's easier than helicoiling them in place)..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Now you tell me to helicoil the threads Ian!
I had the same thought with the washers, when I dummy assembled the primary chaincase I also had the same thought that the plate would distort/warp around the gasket, hence why I aske the question.
I can turn the 3 longer whitworth bolts in stainless. thanks again for your wisdom and expertise with these bikes.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Sometimes you don't think of everything on someone elses restoration... ... ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Julian, a bit like Ian said, I cut out a ring of 2mm steel with the three holes in to reinforce the primary back cover. I then glued this in with polyurethane car body sealer, dummying it up to align with the gearbox before the sealer set. I also dilled holes not slots to locate the case more positively. The original slots had partialy broken up on mine and the flange needed to be flatened, the ring did both.

Cheers Pat

Thanks Pat,

Thankfully my primary chaincase is intact and so is the cranckcase, but I could see a flaw and its been answered with these suggestions, thankfully I have a company local to me that I use with work allot and they have a laser cutter. I'll see if I can draw up a ring like you say from 2mm sheet to sandwich the primary chaincase cover.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

It's time I sorted out the exhaust as my original is to far gone to salvage.
With my bike being 1945, would the exhaust of originally been chrome plated, as the one which I have taken off was chrome plated, although I have no idea if it was changed at some point when it got painted purple.
When or what bikes had the black exhausts, if mine was the matt silver colour has anyone got experience of having the exhaust in stainless steel and vapour blasting matt?
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian..The exhaust systems were originally dull chrome plated...I use blasted stainless on all of my military bikes as it is the nearest finish to it and it's durable....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian,

Where do you get them from, as all the shops I see on the Internet are either mild steel untreated or bright chrome plated.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian..You can get the pipe and correct 'tipped up' silencer from Armour Motor Products in Bournemouth.01202 519409 (state you want a WD silencer)..However, be prepared for possible 'buggeration' in getting the pipe to fit nicely..You may have to mess about with the bracket etc...Really they are the only show in town though, so there isn't any choice. It can be a pain but I always get it to fit..and some people have had them fit right on...The silencers are generally OK. Ask for a polished system, that way all the welds are polished out and you'll get a nice finish when it's blasted....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks again Ian,
I sent Armours an email yesterday, as I saw them list the pipes, just wasn't clear if they could offer it in stainless, hopefully will get a response this week.
I think it's getting close to having another thread, pictures don't half lengthen it a bit quick.
One last note on this thread though.
I have found throughout this restoration that digital photos are a life saver as you strip your bike apart, what helps with digital photos is the organisation of them all to keep track of what I did, this little tip worked well which I learnt in Uni, organise all your folders by reverse dating (year month then title) and for each stage document what you have done in intervals, makes managing all your photos so much easier and you don't waste time looking for that special picture you need.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

So what is the best way to go if you already have a mild steel system and don't want to throw it all away and reinvest in Stainless? BBQ paint only lasts a few months, Powder Coating apparently can't stand the heat? Is Ceramic Coating the best option and if so, does anyone know a good place to go? I'm sure we've been through this before?

Julian,

That's the way to go with the picture filing, I found out the hard way, with the dates etc. but have it on order now, and can find over 50K photos with a mouseclick or 4 on my computer now, using many sub, and sub-sub folders, starting with the bikes country, then make, then divided by my bikes/others bikes/parts/manuals/word documents/black and white photo's, etc.

For example the parts section is divided by frame/forks/engine/gearbox/wheels, etc.

When you keep it organized it's easy to search.

Re. the finish of exhaust systems, all early stuff, I think upto 1941 was matt chrome plated, and from then on cadmium plated, both these systems will discolour, but then even stainless will, especially when the ignition is (too) retarded.

Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbike.net

Bill...Ceramic coating is a 'non starter', I shopped around with a view to getting my Sportster exhaust pipes coated (not the silencers)...£450 plus vat and shipping!!...The best plan is to save up and get the stainless...
Lex..Cad will burn off pretty quickly at the engine end...Dull chrome plating is hard to get done well, is expensive and has a limited life. The stainless systems will discolour but if they are run through a blaster again they go right back to a 'fresh' look. If I am taking my bike somewhere where I wan't it to look its best I just blast the exhaust again...The one on my 'original' M20 has been on there over 10 years now...For exhausts there is nothing that can match it...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com