My oil pipes from the Crankcase to the oil tank, after some gentle cleaning appear to be chrome plated copper pipes, I've been looking for a few weeks now to try and source new oil pipe assemblies complete but with little joy? are these completely obsolete or can these be sourced from anyone?

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian...Russell Motors had them...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

These fittings on your pipe are original for a war time BSA, what Russell used to sell was post war not not absolutely right for your bike.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

I've seen that Carriot Cycles do a braided version of the oil pipe, but its the chrome plated pre formed copper that baffles me, complete with nipple as I can slavage the nut already on the exsisting fitting, I would also need to get a brass Crimp style swivel nut for the braided oil pipe, is this possible?

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian.

I make up hydraulic hoses at work, so I have all sorts of little fittings and a crimping press also,
If you can let me know exactly what you want, I will try to help you.
Darren

email (option): dwrudd@lineone.net

Can you do any Matchy pipes?

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

These are the oil lines that I bought from Bill Green in New South Wales.



Cheers,
Mike

email (option): jamik@westnet.com.au

Hi Rob,

The honest answer is I don't know !
The hoses that I do are mostly the flexible type.

I have rubber hoses in stock in all sorts of sized bores and threaded inserts in male and female threads, BSP, metric, JIC, and just one or two oddballs,
I can swage them into hoses with standard ferrules which I carry in stock. I also carry a range of ptfe inner with a stainless steel outer braided covered hose. This can also be used with the same fittings.

Other than that, I can just replace the rubber bit of hoses like the ones in the pictures, if you ant to keep the same nut and pipe.

I do have some hydraulic steel tubes in small metric sizes ( 6mm, 8mm, 10mm & 12mm ) but I am no expert at bending them into complex shapes, 90 degree etc fine, but when it looks like a snake !! nah.

Most of my fittings for the steel pipe are compression fitting, not silver soldered etc so the soldered banjo's etc, I would struggle.

But if anything sounds like it may help, feel free to drop me an email and I can send you my number if you want to chat.

Like everything else I offer on here, I don't profit as this is my hobby, so if I can help, I will.

Darren

email (option): dwrudd@lineone.net

Julian, what is the problem with your existing rigid lines ? If you're worried about damage or embrittlement of the copper, you can either make up using new parts or dismantle the originals and re-use the nipples and nuts.

Soft copper pipe is very easy to form. There have been discussions over the correct types of solder to use. Some will insist that only silver-solder is strong enough but I've sweated apart quite a lot of original dull-chromed Norton lines and they melt at a lower temperature. I've had no problems with soft-soldered joints.

The pipes were never left as bare copper originally. I took Lex's advice in terms of finish and my pipes are simply tinned. They look fine, if a little 'patinated'

Regardingt Bill Green, is he still around? Hasn't returned any emails regarding parts for awhile. Can someone confirm his email address please?

Got some stuff from him just before Chrissie.
HE actually has a part time day job so is some times away for several days.

bbg34@optusnet.com.au 0419-280-650

FWIW I replaced my oil lines with tefflon lined stainless braided hose.
While the copper can be annealed ( exactly the same as a head gasket ) my rubbers were rock hard & leaking from every where.
Nothing like original but the bike is for riding not collecting trophies and nothing else on it is correct in any case.

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au

The problem with my pipes seams to be the rubber braided upper parts and the chrome on one of the pipes has been scuffed off badly. I've seen on Carrot Cycles that they offer a braided pipe and also sell the Brass ferrules, the copper pipe I'm finding very difficult to source.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

I have just got some copper pipe and now tempted to make new myself, also found a little engineering company close by with a Nickel bath, going to have a go at making new myself with existing fittings and just replacing the rubber hose as it really is rank and can't see how it can seal in it's present state.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

I'd definitely agree with replacing the flexible portion. It can collapse on the inside, even if the outer is good and a properly crimped ferrule will keep it looking original and ensure it stays put.

Well if anyone is in Rossendale area. Look me up and I will help

Darren
John Fenwick Rossendale ltd

email (option): dwrudd@lineone.net

Douglas, Bill Green does a lot of travelling around Oz so keep trying. I have 2 Email addresses ie bbg75@optusnet.com.au & bbg34@optusnet.com.au. Hope that helps.

Problem solved, 5/16" chrome plated copper pipe now sourced so can solder old nipples to the new pipe, along with the new braided Oil pipe with brass ferrules, the oil hoses should look completely authentic again, will keep the original P clips as they do make the authentic look in comparison to the modern O clips.
Just shame you can't source these pipes already made up.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Julian,

I bought some ID 5/16" rubber fuel tube. I just fitted the original ferrule on the tube and because of the smaller ID of the ferrule it makes a perfect fit on the oil pipe. I used the original clip onder the other side. It works perfect no leaks and a very flexible rubber pipe again.

Regards,
Leon

email (option): leonhop3@planet.nl

Hi Julian, where did you source the 5/16 chrome plated copper pipe please? Was it on the internet?. I have to make up two oil pipes from scratch as both are missing for my 1938 M20.

Rgds Dave

email (option): d.weston"virgin.net

Shouldn't a 1938 have rubber oil lines? Up to about 1941 full rubber oil lines were used on WM20's.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Hi Henk, you may be correct.. I could not work out the type and assumed they were metal becase I saw a picture of a 37/38 with the metal oil lines. My 1938 parts book was not that clear on this..
Thanks for the pictures, I may be able to reproduce them from the photo.

Dave

email (option): d.weston@virgin.net

David,
My chrome plated copper pipe was purchased from R&S Electroplating Limited @ £7.95 per 500mm with free p&p.
Have just received the braided rubber pipe from Carrot cycles along with the brass ferrules, it looks stunning and 100% genuine.
I've also got a mini pipe bender which I brought from Screwfix some time ago, this helps in forming the chrome plated pipe without restricting the bore once formed, plus it gives better control in forming the correct angles.
Good luck, will show photo once made.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Pre war oil lines are full length rubber hose.
37-38 have no lower threaded fittings, steel stub pipes are part of crankcase.
39-41 are as per Henk's picture.

Rubber oil hose with moulded braided appearance exterior is post war and common to Brit bikes of 1960's. (sometimes called herringbone)

email (option): n.gentner@bigpond.com

Hi Neale, thanks for that info.. I am on my travels at the moment so away from engine and oil tank ( it is a 38 oil tank ).. I will take a good look when I return home. The pipes were on my list of last items to sort for reassembly of the bike. I assumed they were metal as I have a very good photo of a 1937 M20 with metal oil lines with the earlier oil tank, so again assumed that was correct. My 38 parts book is a smudgey photo copy so was unsure of pipe info. Another lesson learned to check and re-check items.
Ref the rubber oil pipe type, as the outer is not herrigbone design, is it simply reinforced rubber pipe with plain outers? any end finisher on the pipe? .

Rgds Dave

Thanks Neale for that contribution, that also clarifiies that the braided pipe is the correct pipe for my 1944/1945 bike.
just made the swaging tool and just swaged the first pipes, look amazing after polishing the brass nuts on the mop.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Correction, 1938 M20 does use metal pipes, specifically:

2 x 66-8328/1 Oil supply pipe with union, (long metal pipes from oiltank, the /1 indicates cadmium plating.
2 x 66-8332/1 Oil pipe nut, again cadmium plated.
2 x 65-2060 Rubber connection, (black rubber oil resistant hose 5/16” ID x 2.5” long, also used for oil tank vent).

38 parts book is ambiguous, but it appears oil hose was clamped with screw type clamps which were only sold as individual parts, below list makes one hose clamp assembly :

1 x 65-2061 Oil pipe connection clip.

1 x C2-154 Screw (slotted, round head)

1 x C2-158 Nut (hex)

6 complete clamps required for one machine (2 oil pipes plus vent).

Ferrules do not appear to be listed in 38 parts book, but are in 39 and were definitely used 39 onwards.

The groove swage of your original ferrules is a BSA signature for both aluminium and brass ferrules.

I suspect aluminium ferrules used in 39, changed to brass during war and back to aluminium post war, part number remained unchanged.

Yes, original hose has plain outer.
Modern plain outer oil hose is usually printed with maker and data, this can be removed with a little lacquer thinner on a rag.

Some modern hose doesn't last long before it starts to crack, probably from U/V light.

I have found American "Gates" hose to stand the test of time.

email (option): n.gentner@bigpond.com

I bought some herringbone pipe recently for my Triumph

Expensive or what !!!

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

I'm sure it would of been cheaper to buy ready made but it's nice to make these bits and pieces, especially when it goes well.
The herringbone I brought from Carrot Cycles at £1.85 per foot along with the Brass Ferrules @ £0.70 a pair, I brought a couple of feet of hose but you only need 3" per hose at the max, plenty of spare for the next restoration?
The ferrule crimp tool I made myself with a 15mm clearance hole and a 14mm reamed crimp hole at the bottom of the tool, made from 1/2" thick stainless square bar.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

£1.85 a foot,

Now I feel ill Julian

I must check out this carrot cycle site

You learn all the time

:-(

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Hi Neale, thank you for the oil pipe detective work.. that is truely
good info for me to sort this out. The early M20's certainly have some intersting variations.
Many thanks

RGds Dave

email (option): d.weston@virgin.net

Julian Hands

Thanks Neale for that contribution, that also clarifiies that the braided pipe is the correct pipe for my 1944/1945 bike.
just made the swaging tool and just swaged the first pipes, look amazing after polishing the brass nuts on the mop.

email (option): Jeff@infinitymedspa.com

Julian Hands

Thanks Neale for that contribution, that also clarifiies that the braided pipe is the correct pipe for my 1944/1945 bike.
just made the swaging tool and just swaged the first pipes, look amazing after polishing the brass nuts on the mop.

email (option): Jeff@infinitymedspa.com

Hi Jeff,

I'm sorry to say that the clamps I have are the originals.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com