Guys, is there supposed to be an oil slinger or washer between the
large bearing and housing in the early upright Dolls head gearbox?
Cant remember if there was when taking old bearing out. There is a
stepped seat there.

Before photo for fun:



And after:

email (option): hsteinsson28@hotmail.com

Hinrik, Yes - Edgar Franks states: "Press the main gear bearing into position, having first placed the pen-steel washer in the bottom of the housing".

However, as the washer sits in the recess which you have identified, it doesn't have any shimming function and is simply a form of oil retention which is probably not necessary if you fit a bearing with a seal on the outside (I can't honestly remember if I replaced the washer there. I do recall removing the seal on one side of the bearing).

Hello Hinrik, as Rik says its for a oil baffle shim. If you are going to fit a sealed bearing miss this baffle out as the outside edge of the shim will cut into the rubber seal of the bearing. What i have done in the past is fit a sealed bearing with the rubber seal removed from the inside of the bearing.
Fit this without the baffle shim, rubber side out, as you will know a second larger oil baffle shim is fitted between the bearing and the sleeve gear on the inside of the box. Fit this and make sure the outside dia is rubbing and covering the outside dia of the bearing. This baffle shim has to be dead flat. I have tried a sealed bearing with both rubbers fitted without this inside baffle shim and i found it leaked. When you think about it the pressure of the oil forced out of the side of the sleeve gear teeth is directly onto the rubber seal and it must force its way past the seal, this is one of the reasons for this larger inside baffle shim. Just make sure the shim is dead flat.

Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

Thanks for comments guys. I just spent 40 euros on a genuine
Norton bearing which is open. I have an oil slinger part number
9666. Is that the right one to fit there? Got it from Russel Motors
many years ago but they wrote on it "make bigger" and arrow to the
inside diam.

Reg

Hinrik

email (option): hsteinsson28@hotmail.com

You need 2 sizes both same id, the one fitted between the sleeve gear and the bearing is a larger od than the one that sits in the case. if you make them the one that sits in the case wants to be a bit smaller than the od of the recess in the case. The other one that is between the sleeve gear and the bearing wants to be just a bit smaller than the od of the bearing so it rubs against the side of outer race. The bearing you have got is for the later AMC type box this has a proper rubber seal. I have once bored a Norton WD case out to fit a rubber seal but the cases are not all that thick but it worked. If you want to do it this way look at the thickness of the gearbox case they vary a lot, and look at the finish on the outside of the sprocket where the seal will run. If you make baffle shims make sure they are dead flat or it won't work.

Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

The drive side bearing is the same size as a Norton Commando, so I bought one from Andover Norton and asked for one with a seal on one side. I used the large shim on the inside of the bearing to take up some of the slack.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Think you mean distance not slack, the drive sprocket nut should always be done up tight as this pulls it all together and traps the shims so they rotate with the sleeve gear. A loose sprocket nut will soon destroy the oil baffle shims, also applies to M20s.

Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

By slack I mean the 95 thou i had to shim up. That's big enough to call it slack.