Been to our local bearing suppliers today trying to replace the wheel bearings on my bike, but I've been told that the TIMKEN bearing 2K1178X/2K1130N1 is now Obsolete, they can source the others (2K05079/2K05185).
Is it therefore worth replacing all with sealed bearings and has anyone got modern numbers for these sealed units?
There is a modern equivalent for the rear bearing..Bearing number 30204...These are cheap and easy to obtain BUT buy a branded European or Japanese make not Indian, Russian or Chinese ones. For the fronts there isn't a direct replacement..though I seem to remember from a previous post there is one that can be sleeved or used in conjunction with a spacer..I can't remember the details.
There aren't any sealed bearings either in taper roller form...Ian
This is what I have on my crib sheet from past posts here regarding wheel bearings. Not sure if it's all up to date though
Front wheel bearing: 2K1178X and 2K1130N1 (inners and outers numbered separately)
Rear wheel bearing: 2K05079 and 2K05185 (inners and outers numbered separately).
Alternatively Timkin makes both the parts Cone is Part #05062, matching Cup is Part #05175 for the front wheel.
Rear wheel bearings are metric andyou can use a modern equivalent, Bearing: no.30204 a metric taper roller bearing OD 47mm, width 15.25mm, bore 20mm. Alternative rear wheel bearings 05079 and 05185
Front wheel bearings are Imperial (can be replaced with sealed ball bearings and a spacer to prevent side load)
Front Dimensions:
Outside diameter... 1.750" (1 3/4")
Inside diameter... .625" (5/8")
Width............. .813 (13/16")
Have to agree there Ian..... Working on various makes of bikes, you get to know some of the flaws and good features of design and maintenance issues. If I had the engineering skills and the inclination, I could build the ultimate nice to ride and easy to maintain bike by using all the best features from all makes.
Regarding the fornt wheel bearings, Although there are a few 'nearly' equivalents or even modern bearings with a machined insert to get the right shaft size, the originals are still available, but the best price I came up with was £65 each plus vat.
OK if you want to stay original, but they are expensive now.
I'm just inspecting my wheel bearings and have to say that actually after a good clean in the wash tank, there is no sign of any significant wear, tempted to re-assemble with old, packed with fresh grease and cleaned throughout, I beleive they should be fine.
Because the bike was sitting in an outhouse since 1977 the original grease had just solidified and made the whole affair look far worse than what it actually is, all the bearing cages and cones are in tact thankfully and no bearings have fallen out yet???
Julien,
The grease is probably a lithium based one which does "cake" after a while as the oil dissipates. Without a test bed, the best inspection is to get an eyepiece like a jeweller would use and examine the rollers and the cup flat face. You are looking for pitting, which if present denotes that the hardness is slowly failing and they should be changed or watched very carefully.
Most cases, a good clean and grease will see you fine.
Thanks Darren, I have an eyepiece that I use at work for calibration, the cones look fine and all surfaces are in excellent condition, although originally I would of liked to renew all the bearings it really is a little wasteful as these do appear to be fine.
Will see how it all assembles before I make my final judgement.