hello everyone. I hurt my back in november and hadnt been able to use my WDM20 since then. It had a two thirds full tank. Today i tried to start it - and although i could get it to fire, it wouldn't run. As I am getting on a bit and didnt want to set my back off again, I didn't try for very long, (I had two lots of goes) but i wonder if this could be because this petrol has been sitting there for some time. What do you think. I think i have read somewhere that it goes off. is this right. hope someone can help. all the best for now peter

email (option): peter.beresford3@btopenworld.com

Hi Peter, I've had no problems at all with starting bikes after they have been left standing..at least not with the petrol.
Just last week I started my M20 after it has been standing for about 5 months.
As usual it was more difficult to start as it had dropped some of its oil into the sump...Once I had got it running and cleared the crankcases it would start normally.
I would check your spark to make sure the points aren't damp etc. and apply a little wd 40 if there is a problem there. Then drain the crankcase and try again...I find mine will kick back more than usual if there is oil in the crankcase as the drag slows the flywheels down..Recently I also drained some petrol from a tank I took off one of my bikes more than 6 months ago and my B33 ran on it quite happily.....Ian

email (option): Ian@wright52.plus.com

The fuels readily available in the US at least, are laced with up to 10-15 % alcohol and in fact do go off in storage, becoming less volatile and absorbing water from the atmosphere. That said, in my limited experience a WM with a 2/3 full tank sitting since November should run fine once you get past what fuel is sitting in the fuel line and float bowl.

I understand that it has been a wet past few months in the UK, so the potential for water condensing inside a partially filled metal tank is higher, depending on storage conditions. The alcohol-laced fuels tend to absorb water as opposed to the water separating out and sitting on the bottom of the tank. Watered fuel could account for your situation, if the machine was operating properly prior to the current problem.

I suggest that if the bike wants to start, draining the fuel lines and carb should have you back in business…no need to drain the tank ...yet.

In a perfect world, if the bike is to sit, the tank would be kept completely full, or empty and dry.

Good Luck with the back and the bike...!

email (option): teladelujo@msn.com

I periodically start bikes/vehicles that have petrol that is years old. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi John..We only have 5% ethanol in the petrol at the moment..and not all petrol has it...The move to E10 (10%) has been postponed..I'm forever reading comments from people in magazines who say ethanol is to blame for nearly every problem they have...I run my bikes regularly, fill up at any petrol pump in any petrol station and haven't noticed any particular effects or changes so far...higher percentages might make for a different situation though...Ian

email (option): Ian@wright52.plus.com

Out with the jetblock and clean that tiny idle jet pinhole!

I tend to agree with Ron and Douglas. When Iv started bikes that have stood for a long time its usually the pilot jet that is to blame. If they start at all, low rev running is rubbish until Iv cleaned that jet, but run fine afterwards
Also as Ian says wet sumping can cause starting problems caused by oil drag on the crank.

Its been four weeks since since I started any of my bikes because of an ankle injury, and Iv got at least another 6 weeks to go. And Im dreading getting them all running after that

email (option): Gasboy@btinternet.com

thanks everyone for really reassuring guidance and advice. I will work through these. hope to be able to report back positively in due course. all best for now. peter

email (option): peter.beresford3@btopenworld.com

Modern fuel ( which is not petrol ) is quite random.
Down here in OZ I have had tanks last for years while others have gone off in a couple of weeks.
Both BP & Shell only guarantee their fuels for a period of 60 days, if and only if they have been stored in a sealed container out of the sun. So that, in my opinion says it all.
A couple of members with dicky tickers drain their tanks after every run if the bike is not going to be used next weekend and tip the fuel into their cars that are fuel injected and computer controlled.
No one ever puts e anything in their bikes , for now, but manditory ethanol is on it's way.

If you tip some fuel in a dish and leave it out in the sun you will see that after about an hour it will have gone dark & about 1/3 will have evaporated.
After a full day about 2/3 rds will have gone & you will have a black, foul smelling goop in the bottom of the jar that will reman here almost forever.
This is what we are trying to burn. not easy.

There are a whole lot of petro chemical solvents that are by products so still being made.
As they can not be sold my guess is that they are "blended " into modern "fuel"

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au

I agree! There are too many rash and hysterical statements. Like the amount of times I've heard that Insurance companies are going to thrash us since pre 1960 MOT exemption in the UK was introduced.
I am not looking forward to an increase in ethanol levels and I have experienced deterioration in tank liners that have otherwise been unaffected for years. But so far never a starting issue. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Whilst chopping down the jungle that is my garden, I came across a green petrol container that had been out in all weathers for around five years. It worked OK in my chainsaw last summer (what summer?) and will probably be OK next year as well.

Anyway, if you drain your tanks, then the fuel tap corks shrink and leak like a sieve when tank is refilled.

Well Ian, here is the rub.
There are no standards in force any where in the world that states what has to be in fuel.
Just what is the maximum amount of various impurities and things that can not be there at alll.
Modern fuels are designed to be burned in modern fuel injected cars with computer controls so your car will run quite well on a very very very wide range of compositions just as long as there are enogh light aromatics to enable a cold engine to start.
Since Toluene was banned for sale in Aust some fuels have been found to be a high as 20% toluene one batch then none in the next. I picked on Toluene because the government tests for it as the maximum in OZ is 17.5% by volume so these resuts are readily available
I usually fill my M20 from jerry cans of Burma Oil fuel because it is fully imported so does not change day to day week to week or month to month till the shipment has all been distributed.
When using locally blended "pump" petrol I oft have to tweek the slide or pilot jet after refilling .
All sorts of things may be added or not according to the temperatures , season, avarage humidity or what is available at substantial discount, etc etc etc.

The point about the dish of fuel was not meant to be a test of any thing just an illustration that what we get now days is not petrol as we used to know it. Not so long ago if you so much as left the top off a can of real petrol it would have completely evaporated in your shed.

This might not be a problem up there close to the land of Santa Clause but it is a big problem down here.
Diesel is even worse, we have to run every engine on the farm at least for 1 hour a month or it deterioriates and gums up the pump. Diesel is only guaranteed for 30 days if bought in a refinary sealed container .
the local injector mechanic is making a killing with the small farmers ( under 2000 acres ) as most of them run several old tractors usually with an impliment perminently on the back and every time it rains he gets innundated with clogged up injector pumps.

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au