Due to the size of my original thread, rightly pointed out by Ian that it was getting to long, I've started this new thread to show another picture taken this morning of the forks with the front mudguard fitted, if you see my original build that I had, the front mudguard was never fitted due to having severe damage and folds in it, which took ages on an english wheel to straighten out but the shape is now back to square one and it's the first time i've ever seen the bike with the front mudguard.
Here's my original build photos again so you can always look back to where this project stared from.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Starting to re-assemble the rear-end, now the forks are all assembled. Does take a little while sorting and cleaning up all the original tie bars and getting a grip on what went where, I did make an oversight with the powder coating and all the spacers on the rear tie bar I forgot to clean up and send off, so today I have been polishing and grovelling to the powder coaters to get complete ASAP in order to mount the gearbox.
Also worth noting that although I brought a generic engine gasket Kit, I wasn't overly impressed by the quality of the head gasket, have today got hold of a solid copper gasket and the difference speaks for itself, I think this is well worth the investment.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Finally a very big shout out to WWW.AXHOLMESIGNS.CO.UK, Henk very kindly emailed me the Contract number for my bike when I first joined this site and I have today received the stencils to paint the number on the tank. I just hope I can do the stencils justice and position them correctly on the tank
?
Very fast service and they look amazing.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
I quite like it in purple! My Matchless was maroon, very nasty. Can't wait to see the end result of all this work, the stencils look the business, let us know how you get on with them won't you.
Will let you all know how I get on with the stencils, the purple colour really wasn't my cup of tea, wasn't overly sure on the green when I picked up all the parts from the powder coaters but as the bike is getting rebuilt and with the contrasct of the cadmium bolts and brass components it really does look allot better than I could of ever imagined, the quality of the finish is also a million times better than the hand painted purple, don't really miss the purple runs that were very present on the upper chaincover.
Late last night I just put the head on the engine. I've seen one or 2 other internet photos of the M20 with the solid copper gasket, but visually it really does looks stunning with the solid copper band seperating the two black castings.
Can't believe how much I'm enjoying this restoration, may need to find another project when this is finished?????
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Don't worry about another project yet Julian..After building it you have to get it running well and settled down and that can take some time in itself. I ran soft Aluminium gaskets as well for a while..Times being what they are though I got them laser cut..
...I might still have one or two left..Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I was only joking about the next project, I think my wife would walk out if I got another project, we allegidly agreed that there was no rush doing this and I'd do it in my spare time, since having all the powder coating back I don't think I've watched any telly in the house at any evening.
Tonight I've made my spring puller and also received my bundle of BCT nuts and bolts from Nookynuts, along with my new tax disc holder.
Busy weekend ahead, can't wait, LOL.
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Well if you haven't been near the telly that has to be a good result...Most of what's on the box is rubbish anyway...I got rid of mine a number of years back...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Julian. A tip for applying those stencils to the double curvature of a tank. I get the stencil lightly started through the middle. Then slice through any naturally forming pleats with a Stanley blade to get everything down flat. Any resulting staggers in the outer edges is so minute that it doesn't show when sprayed. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
I stenciled my tank a few years ago and didn't allow enough room for the knee grip rubbers, probably should have fitted them first I suppose.
Anyway half the last digit was underneath
Rob
email (option): robmiller11@yahoo.co.uk
Julian this example was from my C10 which I have done in training markings, similar to those seen in the training film.......Have you got a copy? Dave (Horror) might still have some? Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
It's nice to see that you've got a duel purpose kitchen too Ron!
As far as I know Hans. BSA had their own sign writers and hence the none stencil broken digit style. I've heard that the experienced sign writers could do a tank free hand in minutes. I use 'Axeholm' or 'Classic transfers' for all my computer cut stencils and just show them a picture of what I want. There are so many stencil fonts that it is too confusing to give a title. But I quite like this one which I've always known as 'Times New Roman' One day when I re-spray my M20, I'll put the correct style and number on it. 
Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Here is a picture of a few original digits from my 1940 tank, you can clearly see that it is done with a brush in a few strokes.
I will try to see if I can copy that on my 42 tank. Don't have the experience but have more time... , Michiel
email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com
Jo'b.
A new batch of M20 head gaskets should be ready for me to collect next week. I'll let you know when there in.
TTJohn
email (option): Jomichael@aol.com
Yes Bill! My wife often comments on the strange smells when she comes home from walking the dog or Tesco. Of course I know nothing about spraying stencils or crankcases in the oven. I always say it's that bloody annoying neighbour who keeps burning plastic on his bonfire. 
Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
That's what I like to hear Ron, what they don't know won't hurt them! When I was about 13 years old, I had a bright idea of drying a leaky Villiers carb float out before I soldered the hole, by putting it under my Mums grill. As you'd expect, it exploded quite spectacularly and almost destroyed the place, Mum was not impressed, we live and learn! 
ron i am disappointed i thought you were posh and you and your wife only shopped in harrods not slumming it in tescos
email (option): roger.beck@node6.com
She only buys the dog food at Tesco's Roger. Of course I only eat Harrod's finest.
I also use a 1.5 thou feeler at the points as I don't smoke either Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
I used to use the ciggy papers...but now I use the natty electonic gizmo I bought as it is far more accurate I find. Fortunately I bought the gizmo before I gave up the weed six months ago... ...Ian
email (option): Ian@wright52.plus.com
My feeler gauges never went down that fine so reluctantly I went to Spar and invested my 27 pence on a packet of Blue Rizzla's, they are allot easier to use than feeler gauges and I have to say a big thanks to Ian's Ignition Timing document in the Technical section, really easy to follow.
The BTDC was set with ease using a clock as detailed below:
Once the timing got set, I realised that mounting the engine may need a bit of creative thinking as I couldn't afford a full monty bike table and have brought a bike lift, which is great, but does hamper getting a jack under the engine when mounting it on the frame, therefore I had to make the wooden support frame until the engine is mounted:
Now with engine mounted:
Then slide the jack out and the bike lift in:
I appreciate this post is probably getting a little long now but finally I'm chuffed as punch with the work spent cleaning up the timing cover as detailed in my original post and really pleased I decided to get it vapour blasted, as it blends in beautifully with the crankcase.
As I mentioned earlier on about the copper head gasket, the photo speaks for itself, it looks right.
My wife was quite shocked when she walked into the garage with a coffee for me as she said it was a chitty chitty bang bang moment and that my Dad would never recognise the bike, what was even nicer was when a neighbour walked by and asked if this was a BSA I was restoring, he then came in the garage to have a look in at what I was doing, to then say that he use to ride a BSA M20 in the war, passed on a few tales and commented on that this looked amazing, he now asked if he could pop in to see the progress, it's moments like this that really make it worthwhile (I'm chuffed).
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
And that's exactly what I did also Ron, as it seemed right to have the gears in sync going in the forward direction, also surprised at how sensitive it all is at the 7/16" position.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
No spacer (Tufnol) between carb and cylinder? And that copper gasket indeed looks much better than the asbestos thing
email (option): viaconsu [at] planet [dot] nl
Well spotted Hans!...Yes Julian...you need to fit a tufnol insulation spacer between the carb and barrel...ideally 1/4" thick....to avoid boiling petrol, vapour locks and all sorts of popping and banging when the carb gets too hot...Ian
email (option): Ian@wright52.plus.com
Thanks Hans & Ian,
Carb was never fitted to the bike when I had it and never had a spacer in the box of bits, thought the Carb mounting studs were a little long.
Never saw this Tufnol block displayed on any drawings on either Draganfly or the AMAL websites?
Is this block something I can purchase or do I need to machine the spacer?
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
I made my spacer from a scrap piece of 8mm MDF...
email (option): viaconsu [at] planet [dot] nl
Best I could get is 4mm thick Tufnol Sheet, with a gasket each side that should make my 1/4" offset. Will machine tomorrow and with technology available to most nowadays it does make the job allot easier:
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Your right about the smell Neale!..In pre health and safety days I used to machine 8" triplex chain sprocket blanks out of the stuff...just a simple face mask for protection from the dust. I was saffron coloured by the end of the day!...It DDDidn't affect me in ani weigh tho...
...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
All Machined and ready for installation tonight, I've also turned a little bit of Acetal to 1" diameter to align the carb housing, spacer and barrel when installing to minimise the turbulance and restriuction in flow once assembled, I use to have loads of trouble with a DR125 due to carb miss alignment.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
One with a couple of gaskets should do it...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Thanks Ian,
Gasket each side and one Tufnol spacer is just right with the length of studs.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Things have slowed down a little on the rebuild after the Xmas expenses, still getting it re-assembled bit by bit and hopefully I will be able to collect my Gearbox casings on Friday to get rebuilt and fit the new kickstart bush and spring, along with main bearing and seals.
all of a sudden it's starting to look like a bike again, the new spacers I machined for the pannier carrrier and the seat posts are at the powder coaters. Exhaust and wiring may have to commence soon I think.
The field stand was never fitted properly to the bike when I had it and I can see why as they are a little bit of a fiddle to get to align with the bottom clip, glad I took the time to get it aligned as I think it looks allot better following the rear stay tube than how it was fitted originally.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Have you got this part Julian? It's a short heavy extension for the field stand clip. It has a slight bend which should bend inwards like mine. Often missing or fitted wrong. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Thanks Ron,
I do have the extension piuece, but I have studied the drawings on the Technical Info for the Field Stand Clip and mine is allot shorter than the norm, hence why the position of the arm was quite fiddly to align and also miss the seat mounting lugs when inserted.
Maybe a project to make new at some future date, but can use what I have at present.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
You bugger Ron, you've just made me source one now from BSA De Groot, think this will make the stand a little more secure as currently the clip isn't really doing a great deal.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Serves you right Julian. I've had nearly 30 years of sleepless nights where I've found I have the wrong part or it's missing or up side down. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Hi Julian..No kickstart rubber or gearchange lever rubber would have been fitted originally....Time to start a new thread again as well!!...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com