I hesitate to call the bottom section of the blackout light a light but can anyone tell me what was originally at the front of this?

When I got this it had just been painted over the rusty thin metal plate with 6 tiny holes. What I thought was just dirt and rust around the edges must have been the remains of some translucent material but nothing identifiable.

I have made two thin perspex plates to go either side of the thing metal bit but I notice that most photos of restorations seem to show this as being a yellowish colour?

BTW, I had to remake the main 'beam' lens holder as the original was completely rotted so if anyone wants the template for that let me know - I haven't got a nice dimensioned drawing I'm afraid.

email (option): rays54@hotmail.com

Nice work on the remake!

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

Thanks Henri - the original was very sad and I was pretty happy with the result.
As you probably know these are paper thin so really fiddly to work with.

email (option): rays54@hotmail.com

Hi Ray..the original 'lense' piece was thin celluloid..like plastic, but an earlier version..It was pretty (semi) opaque and white in colour when new....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Ray,
As far as I know, my ´cover´ has always been on the outside. The function of this is to let the generated heat go out.

Regards,
Sven

email (option): snvosselman@hotmail.com

Hi Sven, I think the correct location is on the inside (and reversed)..The pressing then forms a 'cup' to hold the celluloid (and a thin spacer if memory serves). Certainly all the ones I have had were assembled that way...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Ian,
Do you have any close up pictures and do you know which celluloid to use?
And does it have a 'light' function or am I correctly informed about the heat vent issue?
Regards,
Sven

email (option): snvosselman@hotmail.com

Hi Sven..With the celluloid disc fitted there is nowhere for any heat to get out..and I don't think that is an issue anyway. At night the circle of small holes are illuminated (dimly) through the celluloid.
The celluloid disc is white and semi opaque.
I don't have any photos of an assembled unit but I'm sure someone who reads this posting will put on a few pics. of the original set up. I would think any thin white plastic would do the job OK..Celluloid, which was a predecessor of plastic, is not so readily available now I don't think..and it is quite brittle.....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ian. I cheated a little by going over the perspex with emery to take the shine off and cut out two layers of baking paper to place behind the perspex and it looks pretty reasonable.

Mind you, I wouldn't want to ride past the end of my driveway at night with this set-up. My hat goes off to the guys who had to ride with this level of lighting.

email (option): rays54@hotmail.com

A NEW LUCAS LAMP MASK

Recognising the shortcomings of the "official" three-slot headlamp mask, Joseph Lucas, Ltd., have produced a new design which conforms with the regulations, and possesses many advantages over the original type.
In the new pattern the intricate system of baffles is eliminated and, instead, light comes through a single slot cut in a plain disc of metal. Behind the slot is a rubber-seated diffuser which takes the form of a fluted glass whose purpose is to break up the light beam and spread it fanwise over the full width of the road. Above the slot is a cowl the object of which is to prevent any upward spread of the light beam. This cowl is placed in such a position that the source of light is not visible to a person standing in front of the lamp.
For parking purposes and other occasions when the pilot bulb is being used, there is a small circular aperture towards the bottom of the mask closed by a piece of "milky" celastoid similar to that used in the old three-slot mask.
The new mask is much neater than previous types and is made in one piece with the rim which replaces the normal Lucas lamp front and, therefore, remains free from rattles and requires no packing. Incidentally, the glass-sealed orifice is far easier to keep clean, since a single stroke with a duster is all that is necessary. It is completely waterproof and dustproof, thereby preventing damage to or deterioration of the reflector.
Motor cycle sizes are available at 10s. and 10s. 6d.

From: The MotorCycle, January 9th 1941.

Jan

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

'The only slight drawback with the clever new design is that you can't see bugger all'...I took mine out for a ride at night round the quiet Devon lanes..Frankly it's dangerous..you have to go slowly and concentrate fully at all times...It's no wonder there were so many RTAs during the blackout...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

eat carrots ian carrot let you see in the dark night fighter pilot used them

email (option): roger.beck@node6.com

That story was put about by the RAF in WW2 as a 'cover story' to explain how thier bomber crew gunners were able to shoot down German fighters at night...They were trying to keep secret the discovery and use of airborne radars...As they made no secret of the fact it was the consumption of carrots that aided the gunners night vision it became an accepted folklore 'fact'. Carotin (in carots and other foods) is coverted by the body into vitamin A (important for vision), but if you have a balanced diet it doesn't matter how many carrots you eat..your body won't make any more vitamin A than it requires..so it won't improve your eyesight..Perhaps blackout equipped M20s should have radar fitted?.. ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com