Apart from the toolbox, sump guard and a bit of fettling, it's taxed, MOT'd and almost there.

I've just got back from a 9 miler with my 10 year old daughter as co-pilot and the clutch has a slightly grabby nature throughout the travel. I've used the old plates which worked fine before and although I didn't clean them beofre they went back in, they were wrapped and looked pretty clean. This is one of those how-long-is-a-piece-of-string questions, but in your experience, is this likely to improve with use or does something else need to be done?

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Hi lee

Have just spent considerable time in the voodoo area recently that is m20 gearbox & clutch

My observations would be

All fibre plates should be clean and within spec (thickness)
All metal plates straight, not warped and engaging edges should be straight with no burrs, smoothen if necessary
Drum edges should be smooth & notch free to allow for plate movement
A good spring & tightened well
Remove the clutch push rod - clean - I lightly greased mine with marine grade grease

Eventually, I got all 4 gears - but the clutch now works well, smoother than ever before

Hope you get sorted - I'm off now to re-time my engine, can't believe I retarded so badly

France here I come, maybe :-D :-D

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

By the way lee

A lovely bike and another war horse on the road which is great

I hope you have many great adventures on her

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Looks good Lee. When we meet at Weymouth, I'll show you mine and you can show me yours
I have always run my M20 (now 600cc) with one fibre and one steel plate removed. Makes for a much lighter clutch and more room for the plates to separate. It's quite important to follow the instructions for adjustment properly, so that the clutch lever at the gearbox is exactly vertical when the handlebar lever is pulled and some cable free play when the clutch is engaged.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Lee..Also make sure the cable is lubricated with a light machine oil such as '3 in 1' and more crucially that it has a smooth 'run' from the bars to the operating lever on the gearbox, with no sharp bends or 'traps'. I don't run mine under the petrol tank for example.....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

LEE I agree with all the above, but check the plates are flat, Both fibre and steel, I use a piece of plate glass, even a bit off will cause binding, but the best tip is to run with two plates short and the lever vertical when pulled in, , andrew.h.

email (option): warbikes@gmail.com

Good point about the oil Ian! Remember that year in Normandy when my clutch got awful to use and you made a funnel from the corner of a poly bag and we hung the cable in a tree. What a difference! it was so light and smooth after that. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Great looking bike Lee.

are you running the full compliment of clutch plates 8 you might find taking 1 set out ie 1 fibre 1 steel plate that the clutch might run a lot smoother

email (option): roger.beck@node6.com

Hi Lee..The bikes looking nice..but hang on a minute...I've just noticed the Renthal grips ....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks chaps.

Sadly, I didn't count the plates before I put them back in so I've no idea how many are in there. Bugger.

On my trip with Poppy on the back, I was being overly cautious and trying to be overly smooth so maybe that made it feel even worse. I was hoping to rack up a few more miles this afternoon and give the clutch a good old test but the weather put paid to that. And yes, having done 3 winters on bikes and riding the blood Bike in all kinds of weathers, I'm very much a fair weather rider on my own stuff.

Having got a primary case that seems oil tight, it seems I may have to remove it anyway after reading another post. My cush drive nut is tight but I didn't apply threadlock - is this a must?

ps. fear not Ian, the Renthal branded bits are only covers and stop my oily mits from getting my webbing grips covered in all sorts. A fiver well spent.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Hi Lee..I do up the cush drive nut on mine until it comes up against the sprocket sleeve and then knock it up tight with a C spanner and hammer, and just a final couple of 'knocks' with a brass drift. I don't use the tab washer that is available for locking the nut or Loctite...I hate the stuff and use it in very few applications...and never in aluminium threads...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com