Having solved the clutch central nut (earlier topic today),...I now had a loose chain problem on the first test ride...it kept coming off...


So put the M20 back on the table and had a look....being new to the WD bike thing...though it would be best to take it apart.

Now, these parts hold the whole rear wheel on my M20...does not seem to match the manual?



This is the wheel hanging there...





This little bugger had almost no thread left...so will replace that...



Please let me have your thoughts.......as said..its all new to me...so support is more then welcome




Thanks from Netherlands, Jacco

email (option): vansnippenberg@yahoo.com

Hello Jacco,

I did not do that job lately, but as far as I remember, the parts are all there.
Did you check if the rear wheel sits straight and not in an angle which would cause the chain to fall?

Was the “top hat” spacer (Right round part on first photo) on the right hand side between the hub and chassis?

On one side you adjust the tension by the inner spindle and the cam while holding the big nut,
and on the right side with the adjustment screw,
if I remember correctly..
there is a general drawing on the maint' manual on page 20..

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Thanks Noam, top hat was indeed the spacer on the right side...it seems the chain getting off was caused by trouble getting it tensioned correct/axle tightening rather then bad allignment....at least thats what I think now.

Jacco

email (option): Vansnippenberg@yahoo.com

Hi Jacco,

So may be the chain too long,
or if it is ok but could not maintain the tension,
may be the adjuster cam did not rest against the frame,
Or the right adjustment screw missing or has no secure nut?...

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Just a though... It is possible to assemble the cam so it doesn't sit in the flats on the stub axle. Check that the cam is actually in that recess. Hope that helps, and good luck.

Kevin

Also make sure you fit the adjustment cam the right way round or it will interfere with the operation of the rear stand, preventing it going fully into the raised position. Fit the cam so that you have to turn it anti clockwise to tighten the chain..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

One more suggestion... fit the brake first to the frame, before installing the rest of the wheel. Though counter-intuitive, it's actually easier this way. At least for me.

Kevin

Make sure your frame is true! Check the sprockets for wear to see that.

Also, get a straight edge along that rear sprocket and brake drum sprocket. That will tell you a lot.

Cheers

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

A quick indicator of whether the rear frame is bent is how easily the wheel fits in..If you have to 'spread' the frame to get the complete assembly in, or if the frame is too wide and you have to pull the frame in when tightening the spindle nuts it is probably bent..
That in itself isn't the 'end of the world'..many M20s are running around with distorted rear frames. The key thing is that front/rear wheel alignment is correct when its all together...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Amen to what Ian just said. I've had several pass through my hands, and never seen a straight one yet.

I can mail the drawing of the frame dimensions to anyone who needs it.

I beleive there is one on the tech pages too.

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com