Hey gang, so I am back from tour, and moved into my new home, and decided its time to be begin working on the bike again and get her on the road to slow down traffic some more :)

Here is what I need

Headlight bulb. Proper one. Hardest thing to find from a reliable dealer. Need help.
From draganfly:
Bulb, SBC 6v 36/36 Watt
Item No: 170


Pannier bags and straps.
Sourced from Schipperfabric. Gonna order shortly.

Cables.
All of them.
Sourced from draganfly - but are there better suppliers? I do not build cables. I want them pre-assembled.
I believe the following part numbers are correct:
66-8744 - Front brake
66-8882 - Throttle Cable
66-8899 - Choke
66-8580 - clutch
66-8806 - magneto
66-8511 - exhaust
66-9112 - SPEEDO CABLE

Fuel system:
27-8552 - fuel taps
27-8436 - petrol tank filter/adapter

Fuel system is an issue for me. I absolutely hate the cork petcocks. They always leak. Drives me nuts. Anyone know of a petcock that can swap in? I do NOT want to jury-rig something together - bolt in only, preferably wit hthe stock fuel system as it sits currently.

66-4710 Field stand


So all in all, If someone can take some time to double check my part numbers that would be awesome. I just want to make sure that I order the parts only once.

Thoughts/comments? As always my thanks, Brad

email (option): niteshade underscore ta at hottymail dot com

Hi Brad,

John (3guns) in Australia makes great cables.
(ukcarbs@hotmail.com)

If you are in the States, I have 5 each of his, so can sell you a complete set.

In UK, the other guys know.

Hope this helps.

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

For anyone not making there own a good idea to get some old cable & (starting with the longest (normally clutch) use screw-on type nipples & find out exactly what the perfect inner/outer lengths need to be & order them in those measurements. It's the only way to be sure you end up with a nice smooth cable action with some future adjustment.

Thanks Robb, dropped you an email. - Brad

email (option): niteshade underscore ta at hottymail dot com

I am not into jury-rigging cables. I've been making my own for the last 2+ years and it's a pain in the ass, and I need reliable cables too. I want stock lengths at this point.

email (option): niteshade underscore ta at hottymail dot com

Think you misunderstood me.. I use "jury-rigged" as you call them purely as patterns to get the lengths exact, THEN order or make proper new cables. My post when reread isn't as clear as it could've been :-D

Only commented because in over 30yrs ive never seen a stock length cable that was perfect length for a machine unless horrible extra "mid adjusters" were included that take paint off & let water in.

Hi Brad..Any field stand offered by a dealer is likely to be an Indian replica. The knuckle joint can be a bit inaccurate on these but the main problem is the diameter of the stand leg. Previous examples I have seen have the stand leg made from tube of too large a diameter. So, if you have a genuine field stand clip you have a hell of a job getting the leg into it and a harder job getting it out.
I don't know if all the pattern stands are like that but it's worth querying the point.
I think Russell Motors still have NOS stand clips if you don't have one...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Anyone have any advice regarding fuel system? Petcock swap-up?
Just don't like the cork so much - trying to find a pigot type - little help here please.

Brad

email (option): niteshade underscore ta at hottymail dot com

Hi Brad..I use BAP taps..1/4" BSP at both ends..They are not entirely period looking but don't leak. I paint them satin black and they are hardly noticeable (and one is partially covered by the tyre pump anyway.)
They come with filters and are very reasonable pricewise. I gave up with original taps years ago after I got tired of struggling to keep them petrol tight.
Note that some original petrol pipes have 1/8" BSP nuts at the uppert ends..if you have these some mods to the pipe will be required, mine were 1/4" BSP..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Replace the 'cork'-corks by 1/8"rubber-cork gasket material; first do a test with the stuff in your favourite gas/petrol to see if it is the good one

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

Cool, do you have a make model for these? supplier?

Mine are 1/4 by 1/4 as well (I believe) (same size top and bottom) The piping is in good shape, but I am tired of the cork sliders.

Sorry Hans, I am not going to try the rubber instead. I am flat out trying to use slightly newer technology to get the job done.

Brad

email (option): niteshade underscore ta at hottymail dot com

I am using the rubber-cork gasket material Hans is talking about for many years now and never had a leaking petrol tap. Real good stuff.

Henk.

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Same again, my brass taper spigot taps whether new or old always leak & bind up with modern fuel after a few months, they need stripping & greasing regularly.
My Original slide type taps with better cork, work smoothly & don't leak.

Hi All
Re head lamps - I use quartz halogen lamps from Norm & Jan Sisson 38 Ottawa Rd, Wainoni Christchurch 8061 NEW ZEALAND. They have all old bases and wattage ratings. I have them for the M20 and a R60 BMW in which I have a Lucas British pre focus 30 Watt 6 Volt lamp which I run at 7.2V (6 NiMH cells) and crank the voltage regulator up a bit (solid state adjustable 6 V regulator from Uli's BMW Germany which I also plan to use on the M20). Running the 6 V QH lamp at 7.2 makes it very bright white light and the vehicle warrant checkers often comment and ask if I have converted to 12 V. (vehicle warrants are every 6 months here in NZ). Norm & Jan advertise regularly in the NZ Beaded Wheels magazine, the NZ Vintage Car Club publication.
Regards
Doug W

Norm & Jan Sisson,
38 Ottawa Rd,
Wainoni,
Christchurch 8061
NEW ZEALAND
Phone +64 3 389 0643
Email modelboatsupplies@snap.net.nz

email (option): watsond@xnet.co.nz

Hi Brad..Mail me off forum if you want to try a couple of the taps I mentioned...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com