Not a hard job after all... well can't be sure 'till I'm sure it's working!

I need to make a wiring diagram which incorporates a dip-switch together with the 4 position military light switch.

"It's necessary to combine a WD diagram with a pre-war civilian scheme to make it all work" as Rik stated.

That's the diagram I made, but IS IT RIGHT?




And some pictures showing the progress made so far

email (option): ferrarakias@hotmail.com

That's exactly as it should be Kostas. You simply divert
the wire from No2 terminal, that originally went direct to a single filament bulb, to your dip switch. Then two wires back to your twin filament bulb as you have drawn.
I get great pleasure from re-wiring a bike. It's not difficult and I'd never buy a ready made loom.
Your bike is looking excellent Kostas.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Kostas,

Very nice looking project! Where did you get the open end rubber grips for the handlebars? I have been looking for those for a long time.
Reg

Hinrik

email (option): hsteinsson28@hotmail.com

Ron,
Thank you for the compliment, I really appreciate it, your contribution was more than a lot.
Hinrik,
I bought the rubber grips from Jeff Hunter and sent you an email about it.
Kostas

email (option): ferrarakias@hotmail.com

Yes easy to get those grips from Jeff the rubber man.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Kostas

I don't know a great deal about wiring, so can't help with that, but had to post a reply to say that your bike looks great.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Yes Robb.


jeffalanhunter@aol.com

He only opens his emails twice a week I think. So be patient. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

It's looking great Kostas, I know you've been very thorough with getting it as original as possible, and it's definitely paid off
I sent some of my bolts that should be black, to the platers to be dull chromed. What did you use to black them?

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Hi kostas

Your bike looks great, you are putting in the hours on this one

Can I ask you how you did the wiring diagram

I would like to do this for my m20 - what program did you use to create this one ?

I find it difficult these days to follow black lines, colour is more eye friendly for me these days

Many thanks

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

I used Gun cold blueing to get the black color of many screw, bolts and nuts on my BSA. Looks great. It is simple to do yourself. Youtube has lots of videos on how it is done and chemicals can be bought in gun shops, sports shops etc.

Reg

Hinrik

email (option): hsteinsson28@hotmail.com

Hi Hinrik

What bolts & nuts on the BSA were black ?

Best regards

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Lee, Horror & John thank you for your compliments!
Horror,
I heated the bolts with a torch after had them cleaned and then submerged them in a can with motor oil! I repeated the procedure a couple of times until the colour was strong enough.
John,
Made the wiring diagram using AutoCAD, I could make a drawing for you if there are differences between Norton and BSA (although I don't think there are!)
Kostas

email (option): ferrarakias@hotmail.com

I'm not sure if there are any black fixings on an M20?
I've used the cold gun blue method, but I don't think it would stand extreme conditions, I've also heated bolts whilst pouring light oil on. But there is a firm near me that actually performs chemical blacking. Again I don't know how durable it would be in gritted road conditions....Not that that is liable to worry Kostas.

Remember the old black Jappaned screws you used to buy??

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Oil blacked or chemically blacked fasteners are not durable in UK typeweather conditions..unless you keep oiling them.BSA certainly didn't use the finish very much..though I would have to look at my parts list with the 'finish codes' to determine exactly how much.
I have had NOS brass levers with a blacked finish on the clamping screws and Lucas also used it for some fasteners on the mag dynamos. I quite like the understated appearance of it...but don't expect it to stay like that..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I have a chemical at home used by rail modellers to blacken rail way tracks & model tank tracks
I'll post the details over weekend
I have seen the oil method before, it works better with very used oil not so well with unused or clear oil
Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Thanks for the info. The gearbox nuts, linkage and clutch operating lever, and the handlebar bolts are black on a 16H. I have left the linkage with the original blacking on. It was probably so oily it stayed on. The nuts and bolts got put in with all the other stuff to be dull chromed. So gun bluing is probably the best option so I can keep the plating underneath.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

The NOS BSA rear mudguard bolts I bought from Russell Motors some 15 years ago where black covererd in cosmoline. But come to think of it, the main parts I did blue where inside the gearbox. And if you ask what color that should be....the guy who answered "black" because it is pitch black inside the gearbox anyways.... Was correct

email (option): hsteinsson28@hotmail.com

Very nice Kostas, I'm jealous! :-)