I took the old G3/WO for MOT today and the tester took great pleasure in failing it on resricted movement of the steering due to stiff top and bottom bearings. I thought it was fine, but when I got home I ripped the front end to bits, cleaned the friction washers, greased the bearings, made sure the races were OK and built it all back up again with the top nuts done up just enough to let it move without causing play. It was no different, even with the steering damper knob right off!! The forks seem to fall nicley from side to side with the bottom damper assembly completly removed, but as soon as I put the damper assembly back on, it causes resistance (even with the knob loosened) and impeeds the steering to a point where this bloke will fail it again. Any thoughts??

Bill,
As you know it's a bit like a clutch with 2 plane plates and 2 fibre washers. On my G3WO the bottom plate attaches to the bottom yoke and the top plate attaches to the frame. Perhaps you might have the wrong thickness of friction material. Cheers John

email (option): Tinley@btinternet.com

Have you put new friction washers in it? If so, maybe they're a bit too thick, causing the problem. I would take them out, get it MOT'd then put them back in.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

No they are still the old ones, in good condition with plenty of life in them, but still the originals. I've just checked the spares list and the washers for the steering damper should be red and the other ones should be grey. Mine all seem to be grey, so what's the difference? Is it thickness, compound or what and would it make the steering stiff if I used the grey instead of red in the steering damper?

Bill there has got to be something fundamentally wrong!
I would remove the two plate anchor bolts. Check the steering is free, then attach the bolts individually to try and determine where the baulking is talking place.
A problem will occur if the plates are connected to the wrong anchor points.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I agree Ron, something sinister is going on somewhere. Something must be out of true, but I can't find it. Thanks very much for the photo, I've checked mine and it's all attached together in the same way as yours. The problem seems to be the back bolt that holds the upper plate to the lug on the front of the frame. Everything seems fine until I do that one up and then it starts to stiffen up. I've had the plate off and made sure it's flat and nothing else seems wrong, but obviously something is. Just out of interest, can new friction washers be bought and if so where would I get them?

There are often new friction discs for sale at jumbles and places like Brit Bits. But I haven't had to replace my G3 discs, so I don't know about specific AMC items.
I can't really see why your MOTer would fail it though? Surely it's up to you how stiff you have the steering via the damper knob. But as suggested you could disconnect it until you sort the problem. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

To be honest, I don't think he'd ever come across a bike with girders and dampers before. He has to go by Ministry guidelines and they say that the forks should fall easily to the sides, but even the slightest touch from the steering damper will obviously impeed this. I suppose it's the problem with taking a 70 year old bike to a place that normally tests 6 month old Yamahas, but it's the only garage left near me that still tests motorcycles.

Yes you really need a place that is sympathetic to old bikes. Quite often, the brakes won't meet modern standards and my bloke has to (Legally) override the computer. Especially with the front brake on my WD/CO.

I suppose you only have three options if you go back to that place for a re-test.
Tell him you have checked and it's quite normal for a G3 to have damped, stiffer steering, and ask him if he'll reconsider his verdict. (That's what the damper knob is for)
Or just disconnect it for the test.
Or get it working as it should.....if it's not already.

one thing that just occurred to me is, When the friction plates are tightened up at their anchors, are they parallel to the fixed plate on the bottom of steering stem. I have had them where they are tipped and therefore creating friction even when the knob is loose. This can happen if your friction discs are too thick. You can insert a spacing washer or two between the plate and frame.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes Ron, this is the problem with the MOT for older vehicles. I don't agree with going away with it entirely, as has recently been suggested by some, but I do think that there should be some common sense applied to the testing of classics.

I'll double check the damper, there must be something wrong and it can't be anything too serious, it's just a matter of tracking it down. Personally I don't actually think the steering is a problem, it is free to move, no notches or jerks and feels fine when riding, it just doesn't fall with the same 'freeness' of a modern undamped bike.

Well in that case I'd try appealing to his better nature, By explaining that that's what the damper is supposed to do. You could even suggest he takes advice on it through the correct channels. Based on his unfamiliarity of this type of machine.
Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Bill, another thing that just occurred to me is:- When you jack the bike up. The fork spring will make contact with the friction damper plate or head stock. This will also cause some resistance when turning the handlebars. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com