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Petrol-resistant paint

I'm refurbing the old girl at present and have been reading with interest the 2-pack v single-pack debate.
From previous posts, it appears that 2-pack differs sometimes in matt/satin finish depending on the mix, so I opted for the single-pack from Jeep Parts UK which gives a good, uniform finish but doesn't like coming into contact with petrol and isn't as moisture-resistant as 2K.

I've top-coated the olive drab with Lechler Matt Lacquer which has also had a 20% matt additive added due to it looking like a 65% shine and not proper matt straight from the tin.

I've dropped petrol on my test-piece and rubbed it in when nothing happened and all looks good so far. Below is a pic of the front brake to show just how matt my matt lacquer now is.



Ps. the nut & washer on the right doesn't look that bright in real-life - Jerry would spot it a mile-off if it was!

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Hopefully it'll be tougher than the stuff that was on there:

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

is the jeep part paint not matt enough

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

why are you expecting petrol on your front brake parts?

email (option): andrew.honychurch@btinternet.com

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

I've lacquered it for all-round protection really and should I get the brake cleaner out in the future, it'll resist it. The lacquered finish looks identical to the jeep parts finish its just that it provides a greater barrier against moisture and solvents. Plus it's more resistant to minor knocks and chips

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

It looks good to me, I have just spent the last year painting with 2K and it IS too shiny, I matt it down by giving it a dust coat which looks great, but you have to spray everything twice. But the way you are doing it you are spraying twice as well.
I thought the Jeep parts paint WAS petrol resistant..?

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Hi Lee, Thanks for the tip..It looks pretty good to me..Well worth applying to the tank...Your not going to ride an M20 and avoid getting petrol on the paintwork at some point...and if it makes the paintwork on the rest of the bike more durable that has to be better...
I'm going to give this a go when I repaint my M20 during the upcoming rebuild..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Hi Horror..Jeep Parts are selling 'synthetic' paint..at least they were the last time I bought any.
The synthetic has a slow hardening time I have found...though completely dry and useable it takes a while to reach full hardness (weeks).
I have used synthetic for years and will use it again when I rebuild the bike. Basically it is fairly petrol resistant..the odd spill can be wiped off without problems once it is hard and it doesn't lift. However, longer exposure tends to mark the surface so if you have a leaky filler cap you will have marking/discolouration problems at some point. This is compensated for to some degree by the fact it is easy to work with, very consistent in finish under varying conditions and tolerant to keen amateurs!..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Lee. As a matter of interest. What colour did you buy from Jeep Parts? BS 298? Is it Firwood or Cromadex? Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

has anybody used an electric/pump spraygun

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Ron, It's Firwood BS298 - pleeeeaaaase tell me that's the correct colour as I've painted the rolling chassis and fitted new tyres and after applying 2 coats of primer, 2 to 3 coats of colour and 2 coats of lacquer, even if it was pink, I'd probably finish it in the same colour...

Dave, it's a pain in the bum doing it this way as it's either lacquer after a few hours (up to 14 so I'm told) or wait a week (with the painted part in the house) scotch it like crazy and then lacquer - either way, it takes time.

Ian, After hours spent with this paint guru that I know and then fiddling with test-cards, times and ratios, things are looking ok. Matt lacquer is even easier to apply than the colour-coat, it just takes a bit of prepping. I lacquered the wheels last night and have just fitted new tyres and it seems pretty strong - and that's in my garage and not with 20 deg C in a paintshop oven.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Hi Roger. Sorry, never used an electric gun but I'd have thought a mid-range HVLP spray gun on a relatively small compressor should give good results.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Yes Lee 298 is the standard British Olive Drab. I think I might need some for Tim's Matchless.....It's why I asked, because yours looks nice and Firwood is my favourite paint to use. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Ron Pier
Yes Lee 298 is the standard British Olive Drab. I think I might need some for Tim's Matchless.....It's why I asked, because yours looks nice and Firwood is my favourite paint to use. Ron


Thank God for that! Just let me know when you need some. I've also got some of that foul-smelling yellow primer that they sell.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Well if you've got some to spare? Maybe I could buy some. The problem, as you know is JP only sell it by 5 litre tins. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Ron Pier
Well if you've got some to spare? Maybe I could buy some. The problem, as you know is JP only sell it by 5 litre tins. Ron


I seem to be going through it quicker than I thought but I'll be amazed if I get can through 5 litres. Let me know when you want some

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Re: Petrol-resistant paint

Could you spare about 1 1/2-2 litres? Not to worry if you don't want to risk it. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

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