I've been doing some spraying for the last couple of days and there is no doubt my trusty B.E.N. gravity fed spray gun is getting a bit worn and is no longer in production.
I've been looking at potential replacements and there is a fairly 'base model' DeVilbiss gun..the FLG5 that looks like a candidate at around £80-£85.
With a 1.4 nozzle it is suitable for base coat, 2 Pac, Synthetics, Clear coat etc.
Does anyone have experience of this gun?..it would be nice to get the opinion of someone who has used one before buying.
I want a good quality but reasonably priced (about £125 tops) HVLP gravity fed gun..so comments based on practical experiences with other makes would be appreciated as well...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi Lee..Thanks for the info. As well as the synthetic I use on my military parts I use Etch primer, barcoat, various primers, basecoat and 2k clearcoat...In fact I'm using the last two at the moment on some parts for the Harley.
I note you are using a smaller nozzle at 1.0-1.2...I have been recommended a 1.4 for the materials listed above and a 1.8 for filler primers etc...any comments on that? I have a 14cfm compressor with a 120 litre receiver so air isn't an issue...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Heat might be an issue on the crankcases in particular..and you would want a matt finish. The problem with lacquers in these applications is that if they do fail it's a 'pigs ear' to get it all off again..Factory applied lacquer is often problematic on Jap bikes (and the new Triumphs).. and that is applied to (new) die castings which are more stable than sand castings. My mates Triumph has had both wheels and the top yoke replaced because of this problem.
I would try it on something like the gearbox outer cover or timing cover and if it survives well in use think about the more 'hard to get at' parts later..Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I generally clean it with a water soluble degreaser, wash with soapy hot water to remove the degreaser, leave to dry and then WD 40 all over and give it a wipe over with a cloth. In the winter I mix 50/50 paraffin and engine oil in a 'plant squirter' bottle and apply liberally and frequently..Followed by a major 'spring clean' when the good weather appears...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
This seems to be the appropriated place for painting your bike.
email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl
Hi Jeff..Well, not outside in the Desert!..(not really a dust free environment
)..
I usually spray in one of my workshops. I have a 'dirty' workshop where I do the spraying and have the parts washing tank, bead blaster, polishing equipment etc. and a 'clean shop' where I build engines, gearboxes etc.
I normally set up the parts on a small table, sheeted down first with clean paper. Fortunately I have enough space (just) to get all around whatever I am spraying. I also rig up extra lighting when I am spraying so everything is well lit. Sometimes, depending on the part, I will put it on a stand which is also covered with clean paper just before starting work. With other parts I will suspend them from the ceiling on a wire if I need to get 'all round' the part.
I spray with the doors closed to minimise air movement and normally leave them closed for a while beforehand to let any airborne dust to settle.
Once set up the part is rubbed over with a Tac cloth just before spraying to remove dust from the surface.
I also put on a clean pair of overalls before starting.
This way I generally get pretty good results but of course there is always dust etc. in the environment and sometimes it will land in the wrong place!
Recently I have been looking at the possibility of building a collapsible spraying booth inside the workshop..with a filter for incoming air and using the bead blaster extraction system to draw vapour out.
Although I am pretty happy with my results currently, this would reduce the likelyhood of airborne particles getting onto the painted surface. It's irritating when you are doing that final coat, you get it just right..and then a bit of 'shite' lands on it! This particularly applies to the military paints as the finish coat can't be messed about with without marking the finish.
It's not so much of a problem with clearcoat lacquer on civvy parts as it can be cut back and polished to remove small imperfections....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com