Looking over my cylinder spare block, I see a broken off head stud has been re-drilled and re-tapped , but in a smaller size. Also the new thread is slightly off-center, so I'm hopeful I can remove the old bit of the old bolt. I've put some pepetrating fluid to it but since it is an open hole at the bottom (thread is the one to left of exhaust port) it runs out the bottom
Any suggestions or experiences? My usual trick is a Dremel tool and dental picks after soaking with penetrating fluis, so I hope enough creeps into the thread to loosen the rust.
Vince
i had great success with a stuck bolt remover kit. basically it looks like a left turning tap but the angle is much higher. you drill a small hole in the stuck bolt, put the tool in and turn left.
If you squirt in flood, they heating up that area first.
Is there anything left proud? I use a stud extractor.
There are times where I cycle through heat and cold too. If you can get a small piece of dry ice, heat the entire area, then chill the stud. The expansion and contraction breaks the rust bond.
Because the headbolt was broken off, then drilled and tapped, I'm concerned the subsequent work may have gone into the original threads, and I was concerned heating a localized area may damage the barrel. I'll get a picture to show what I'm up against.
Vince
Not sure if it would help in this instance but in the past I have had great success tig welding a nut to the bit of stud showing and easing the stud out. The nut need not go over the stud. A good welder can reach down through the center of the nut and attach it to a stud that is flush with the case. I've done this with as small as 1/4" studs. The heat generated helps to break the stud loose from the aluminum casing. It is so easy I used to do it for free just to see the expression on my customer's faces. I would take the case to the back room and 5 minutes later return with the offending stud removed no damage the the case. People thought I did magic.......