Hi all!

What are options when mag oil seal hole is worn out. I payd no attention to it when engine was apart (stupid me:). Now it's completed again.
What kind was original oil seal? Felt? Will it do if I just cut suitable felt ring and glue it to the place. I'm not worried too much when engine is bit oily.

Thanks Noam. How this epoxy metal resists heat and oil? Felt seems more reliable but I don't know if there is enough room between mag and engine case.

Kalle

Hi Kalle..No problems with the 'epoxy metal' regarding heat and oil...that is probably the solution I would go for if I was in that position...Ian

Hi kale and all.

This “Liquid metal” I mentioned it am epoxy compound.

When dry, it has most properties of a real aluminum including color, electric conductivity,
As Ian mention- a very high heat resistance, very high shearing resistance.
I used for different purposes the "LOCTITE WELD" Bonding Compound.
which withstands 350 degrees F, (130 C)

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htm



I think you can find one in any good hardware store.

As to the felt-
I use one when with the oil seal.
may be 2-3 mm is too thick..You can surly use 1.5mm.

I have one engine case where there I saw a workshop solution:
A surface was machined out around this mag axle hole, and a metal insertion put in, held by 3 screws,
But I guess this is the hardest option…

Good luck,
Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Hi Noam..The repair you describe is the standard REME one to recover worn cases. The insert is usually machined from brass. The problem when machining the case is picking up on the original hole centre..nigh on impossible when the case are worn oval.
I have made a jig for doing this. Usually the cases can be recovered by machining true within the raised part of the casting that houses the seal.
I then turn up an aluminium ring to fit the oversize hole that returns it to the standard size for the oilseal.
Kalles problem is that he has already assembled the engine!...DOH!!.....Ian

email (option): kschaank@hotmail.com

This epoxy thing sounds doable to me. I have some cheap chemical metal at home:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_223979_langId_-1_categoryId_255230

Is that good enough or should I look for better one?

The mag seal on my B33 (same setup as an M20) had spun and worn the back where the mag spindle comes through, I used the later type lipseal. I used some epoxy putty to fill in round the worn hole, I then mounted the mag dyno unit, then pushed the seal over the shaft and pressed it into the epoxy this way you know that the seal is on centre. I did this 10 years ago and have had no problems, and it still works fine I have removed the mag many times for one reason or another and still get no leaks.

Hi Koen, Yes, like this..
Hi Kalle, I do not know this maker,
Is it good? if going down this road- go for the best materials and clean all with thinner before casting.

Hi Ian, yes, I guessed it was a workshop repair.
Strange thaey did not have a template for accurete fix evermy time it is done..

Cheers all!

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Hi Noam...REME would certainly have had jigs for the job. It is the only practical way to do it. BSA would not have bothered probably..they would have sold you another set of crankcases!.I made my own jig....Ian