Any hints or tips to move my handlebar mounts away from the fuel tank? On full-lock the bottom of the mounts brush the tank and it's something I'd like to sort before applying new paint. Unless I've missed something glaringly obvious (which is more than possible..)the only movement appears to be where the mounts are pressed onto the top yoke (if that's what they're called on girder-forked bikes) and I don't want to try and move something that's not designed to be moved unless it's the way to go. Help!

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Hi Lee,

This is always a very small distance, but have you fitted the dustcover ring (between the top bearing race and top yoke).
This is about 1 mm thick.
It's aways an option to ad a filler ring, so the top yoke will go up.
Cheers,

Leon

Could your handlebars have the wrong shape?

Henk.

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Think you need to post a photo so that your girder spring can be viewed to check any missing parts as well.

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

I reckon Henks answer is correct,Had the same problem on a pair of repro WM20 bars I had to put them through a pipe bender to get them right,Also the radius of bends were wrong. I now make my own & use a original pair as a guide.I reckon WM20 bars are one of the best bars to fit for comfort I also fit a piece of solid bar into ends to cut down on vibration Dave

Thanks chaps. Here's a link for some pics of the bars/girder fork. Any suggestions greatfully recieved.

Lee.

http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z335/ktm_nut/

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

I wonder if your handlebar bend is wrong Lee? The upward bend on mine seems to start sooner than yours. I have about 1/2" clearance at the tank on full lock. The state of your fork spring will have no bearing on the handlebar position. Ron.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Correct on that Ron, looks like the straight portion of Lee's handlebar is too wide with the curve starting too far out.

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

The bend on Ron's bike looks like the way to go. With my limited M20 knowledge it was impossible (for me) to decide between a bar or clamp issue, so thanks to all.
On the subject of limited knowledge, There's a mount on the o/s of the girder forks with a hole through it that looks like something to feed the front brake cable through, but it's threaded inside and I wondered if there's something missing that fits here?



If you look through the headlight brackets you'll see it directly behind the brake cable that's flapping in the breeze.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Could your tank be a little to much to the front of the bike? It seems that you are missing the original cup and cone parts to locate the tank in the correct position on the frame. Try moving it back a little until the bolt is in the middle of the hole in the tank and see what happens.

Henk.

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Lee that threaded lug on the forks is a left over from the early bikes that had a rod operated front brake. For some reason they kept the lug after deleting the rod in favour of a much cheaper full length cable.
As it hapens the thread is the same as your spark plug, so you can carry your spare plug there. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

My bike had the same problem. Henk's suggestion is probably looking in the right area. In my case, it was just the wrong tank mounting washers, etc. In particular, the REAR mounts on mine were the problem. It's very deceptive, but it takes only a small lift at the rear of the tank to raise the front enough for the handlebars to make contact. Check you've got the correct assembly. I doubt the 'bars have got anything to do with it.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

As the bars are painted, i would cut a section out of the middle to bring the curves in, sleeve it and bronze. Done this lots of times as most replacement bars are always wrong.

Thanks guys. I've now got a few things to look-out for during the winter sort-out/re-paint.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk