Hello All,

I'm ramping up my M20 project. The issue at hand is clutch assembly. I'm trying to get the damn clutch spring nut installed. My question is, what's a better strategy, trying to get the spring compressed so you can screw down the nut finger tight, or apply pressure to the nut so itstays perpendicular to the basket, thus ensuring it doesn't cross-thread?

I guess cross threading is a big issue, with the hellaciously fine (by my experience) thread. Right?

Thanks, all.


Kevin in Los Angeles

You need a tool for that, you can find lots of useful things on the website also for this problem. This page is made by Hans from Holland.

Henk

clutch tool

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

before i got a clutch tool i used a piece of studding and some thick washers before putting the clutch assembley on the gearbox shaft

email (option): roger.back@node6.com

As a road side repair on the clutch we used the rear brake rod and some nuts and washers, worked like a dream.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Hey Kevin,

Hans has written a great article on that, and I have made a few tools. I also have written a step by step with pics artice about putting that beasty back together.

Please send your email address along so I can send you info on what I have.

Cheers,

Robb

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

There is also some useful information in the 'Technical' section of the forum on setting up the clutch and the potential problems..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Much appreciated all!

Hi Kevin

I'm about to tackle mine as well and could do with all the help I can get. Could you send me your instructions as well please?

Cheers
Pete

email (option): petercomley@web.de

Hi Kevin

I borrowed a tool from a forum member when in normandy this year & rebuilt a new clutch with it

It worked so easily, made a small job out of it

I believe it's origins are deep in Devon, made with an old piston & some threaded bar

If the maker could be persuaded, to make some i'd buy one tomorrow

It's the wright tool for the job !!

:-D

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Thanks for the positive comments John..What you borrowed was a 'workshop' version of the clutch spring compressor tool so it was a little crude..The big advantage though is that it is 'air portable' (small), the job can be done on the bike and it solves the problem of difficulty engaging the nut thread....I now have an improved MK2 version...I will submit it to my friendly engineering company and get a quote for the manufacture of a small batch.
I'll post the results when I have them...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I have made a tool exactly the same as shown by Hans Muller in the technical section. I use it in the drill press. You can push the spring right down, and allows you to carefully screw the nut on without cross threading, and also making sure the nut bottoms out on the clutch centre before tighening. The fully assembled clutch can then obviously be fitted to the bike as complete unit.
The tool works a treat. Wouldn't be without one now.
If Ian gets a small batch made they are well worth there weight
Thanks Keith

email (option): keithatkinson@hotmail.com

Hi Kieth..My tool differs from Hans in that you don't need the drill press.it is a 'self contained' tool. So, the job can be done on the bike without having the whole clutch off it. Also it can be carried about, so clutch work in a field somewhere isn't a problem...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hello Ian; I am guessing your Mk11 incorporates the Hans design but with the use of a screw in stud. The idea/design would eliminate the requirement for the large washer bearing down on the spring nut, and provide for being able to screw this nut on/off unrestricted. (in the feild) These are very easily crossthreaded, as you know. I could modify mine without too much problem, ie, I would have to remove the central stud for drill press use, and provide a hole for the screw in stud 5/16" x 26 TPI
I have experienced the mainshaft nut coming undone once, the one that hold the whole clutch pack on though. I loctite crucial fixings now. I use a cheap rattle gun with correctly sized sockets for getting things undone if needed. I can't really see the need for having this tool whilst out riding though. Better safe with best practice, I suppose.
Thanks.
Keith

email (option): keithatkinson@hotmail.com

I agree Kieth..I'm a great believer in the Army's '6 Ps'..the only time I have ever carried it was to Normandy this year to lend it to Jon O'Brien!
It is frequently the case though that the entire clutch does not need to be removed when working on the bikes at home.
The only nut I have had come adrift (luckily) is the one that holds the ball bearing seat into the clutch pressure plate..that made some interesting noises rattling about inside the clutch cover, commencing at about 45 MPH...it took me a while to find out what was doing it as it had no effect on the clutch operation.. ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I'm not engineering level thinking like your are born with, but, I get real particular with things. If I have a clutch problem, I pull the whole thing off, and give it a real good inspection, clean off burrs, clean up the tangs, boil everything up. smear the bearing a bit. Reassemble, with tangs contacting a different section of the basket adjust, check, recheck. I have bought a triumph A10 clutch pack for future, but really have not experienced too much drama's so far with the original single spring clutch. Bottom line, for me, be particular, and IND refer to this great website.
I'm a bit slow on the uptake sometimes. What's "6Ps" ???
Thanks Keith

email (option): keithatkinson@hotmail.com

Hi Kieth..The 6P's...It's a British Army saying..'Perfect Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance'.. ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ian, Yes I should have guessed that one.
Keith

email (option): keithatkinson@hotmail.com