Gent's and Lady's please excuse the audacity to ask a question about non M21 Beezas but I do follow the forum and like the knowledge that abounds on it, oh and the micky taking.

So sticking with the topic: I’ve a B31 and have what seems like clutch drag issues, but I am getting 3mm of lift on the pressure plate and the plates rattle like mad. So it’s not the clutch. I’ve got minimal side play in the gearbox bearings (we’re talking a couple of thou max) but I have issues changing between 1st and 2nd and I can’t find neutral with the engine running and the bike creeps when left in fist gear with the clutch in and has to be held back at the lights with the front brake. All seems like clutch drag but it can’t be, any ideas?

Cheers
Phill

I had this sort of problem on my B33, turned out to be the the inserts in the clutch drum at the back, the bit you can't see without taking the chainwheel of, they were worn out and it was metal to metal contact, another clutch drum solved the problem. Worth a look?

Hi Phil..What year is your B31?..to clarify which gearbox you have. Also which clutch type?...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks for the heads up, but its an almost new Bob Newby belt drive clutch, was thinking that the belt maybe too tight?

Hi Ian, its a 54 B31 gearbox, Bob Newby belt drive conversion, keep thinking the belt is a little tight. Something that occoured to me after my original post.

Cheers

Hi Phil, I ran a Newby belt kit on my B33 for a few years..from memory you should be able to twist the belt through about 45 degrees when tensioned. The clutch operating arm on the gearbox should lie parallel to the joint faces when the handlebar lever is pulled in for maximum lift..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

BSA Clutches are not the best.
OKY if all the plates are the suraflex type original are true flat with no high spots etc.
You need to lay them on a plane of glass check them.
Avoid Asian pattern plates, India etc..you will pull your hair out getting a clutch it will always drag.
If your money spending go for Triumph conversion or the best move shaft adaptor and Suzuki clutch conversion.
I entered a link in the past for Suzuki Clutch conversion.
I entered the article for this conversion and links in a previous post!
This is plug and play once installed you will never need to touch it again.
Then you can take the BSA clutch and pressed steel clutch chain wheel basket and bury it in the bottom of the garden!

Phil, I also run a Newby clutch and belt drive on my M33 and think it is the sweetest clutch ever. As Ian says, you should be able to twist the belt to 45 degrees in the middle of the belt run between clutch and front pulley. If the belt is too tight it will whine but shouldn't make it drag. It sounds like you are possibly not getting enough lift to disengage the clutch, so check the operating arm position as per Ian’s reply and check all the clutch plates are not distorted and are free to slide inside the basket. From my experience, the clutch springs do not need to be tightened down very much for it to operate correctly, which results in very light clutch lever operation. Tighten down the spring adjusters evenly and gradually till there is just no clutch slip. I have covered about 5000 miles with this clutch which has had some serious abuse while sprinting without any trouble once set up.

Thanks for all the tips chaps, been though all this and its still no better, I'm getting 3mm of lift and the plates are free to rattle when the pressure is off. I've slackened off the belt a little as I was getting 45 deg twist with a bit of effort, the clutch has been back to Bob and he has it as fit for purpose.

Not too sure what more I can do, as I've fitted leavers with a great pull (1 1/4" over 7/8") the leaver on the gearbox is spot on (but i am getting more lift than I need) starting to think it's gearbox related but not too sure how to check, perhaps Ian or Monty needs a look at it as they are only up the road from me?