I'm having trouble finding the right balance of tightening the rear axle bolts sufficinetly so it doesn't move, but not so tight that it inhibits wheel rotation or damages the bearings. Any suggestions? I've had the rear axle shift a bit at heavy acceleration twice , but am afraid of overtightening. I'm tempted to rig something up to take up the extra space in the axle seating to keep it in place, but am hoping someone else has a better solution.

Are you sure you have all the original parts, spacers, bearing locknuts in place? I would think there's no way to hand overtighten the rear axle so that the bearings bind up, maybe you are missing the locknut? The tapered roller bearings have endplay adjustment separate from the rear axle.
Henk has this parts picture posted , see if it looks like something is missing - http://www.wdbsa.nl/parts/parts06.jpg
Also look in the technical section, http://www.wdbsa.nl/technical_information.htm you'll find a link to Maintenance manual that has an illustration of the rear hub (figure 39)
Hope this helps,
Vince

email (option): vnnver#ns.sympatico.ca

Thanks Vince. Very helpful. I'd say from what I've encountered so far on getting this bike working correctly over the past year or so there is a good chance I do NOT have all the parts! Ahh well, better to get it right. I recently took off the rear wheel to rotate the (previously backwards) rear chain adjusting cam, but I didn't stop to inspect all the hub/spindle parts. I just re-assembled as it was. Damn, looks like it might be coming off again.

Figure 39 is relatively clear, but if anyone already has a list of the order each part goes on the spindle, that would be helpful. Thanks!

Craig

email (option): cpdoberstein@gmail.com

Actually, maybe I'll try to post some photos tonight and maybe some of the experts can easily tell me what I'm missing. Stay tuned...

email (option): cpdoberstein@gmail.com

Here are some photos of my rear axle. I'm having a hard time figuring out specific parts from Henk's parts image and the manual. Any thoughts based on these photos? I can't tell what keeps the hub/drum from getting compressed when fully tightening the axle bolts. Also, it's a '46, not a WD, if it matters.




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email (option): cpdoberstein@gmail.com

Hi Graig,
Mailed you privately some images !
Hans

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

Craig. Basically you have a spindle through the hub with a bearing each end which are adjusted before fitting the wheel. The bearings can't be squashed by the wheel spindle nuts if the correct lock nuts are in place. The snail cam on the left is pressed up hard against it's lug on the frame and there is an adjuster bolt on the right. So there is no way that your wheel can move forward....If everything is in place Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

The spacer between the hub and the frame seems to be wrong, looks like a wheel nut as on the outside of the frame.

Henk.

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Hi Craig...The assembly, as is, is incorrect looking at your photos. Also there is an internal spacer which you must check to ensure is present.
I would take out the wheel and start again from scratch, confirming that everything is present and correct and that the bearings are set up properly.
So, strip the wheel out until all you have is the bearing outers in the hub and reassemble, commencing with the bearings, the sleeve that goes through them, with its hardened spacer, the bearing adjustment nut and locknut,cups and felts and the cover plate on the offside. Set this up, with greased and adjusted bearings so that the hub itself is complete. Then move on to the components that mount it to the frame, starting with the brake drum and 'stub axle'..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Hi Henk..nice illustrations...I don't think I have the second one..what publication is it from?
One thing to note is that the collar 15~7047 fits over the sleeve 15~7046 before the bearing is fitted.
Another point of interest is that the spacers that fit into the hub before the bearing outer races (15~7045) come in different thicknesses (in pairs)..I'm not sure why that is unless there was more than one pattern of bearing inner or outer....
Finally the illustration is marked '3 bolt QD, rigid M group ~ (type 8)'...do you have any other information regarding the 'type 8' designation?....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian..... , Draganfly!!!!

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

Thanks guys, excellent input and images as always. Very helpful! I'm definitely missing at a minimum the correct spacer on the offside (it is just a nut Henk). I also may not have the correct internal spacers Ian mentioned. That would explain the drag I'm getting when I overtighten. Hopefully everything else is there, but we'll see. I kind of doubt it will be!