Hi MP..The corks in the clutch don't need to be run dry. Check that you have the clutch operating mechanism correctly adjusted. On a WD machine the clutch operating arm on the gearbox should be vertical when the clutch lever is pulled fully in. On later boxes the clutch op. arm should lie parallel to thecover gasket faces when pulled fully in. Also check that the cable is set with the correct amount of free play.
Personally I wouldn't use a BSA 6 spring clutch...they are poorly designed, subject to rapid wear and difficult to get working correctly and to keep like that.
A Triumph clutch or a single spring M20 clutch are both far better propositions and well worth fitting....Ian
Are they pattern Plates?Or original?
Should be SURAFLEX.
Check them on a glass pane to see if there TRUE and not warped they should be flat.
Check them against the originals if you still have them.
I had a new set in the past sent up from Dragonfly for the B31 started off oky then smoked lack of clearance,stripped it and checked it metal plates rocked on the glass..warped useless... had to send all the clutch back to them and a refund.
Buying replica stuff most of its from Asia.
Ended up making a good clutch out of original spares.
Or you go the way Ian suggested and bin the 6 spring Mickey Mouse Clutch for a Single Spring M20 ,Triumph or Suzuki
I ended up fitting a Suzuki type with Belt Drive conversion....the way to go if you have cash to plosh.
Yea I am going to look at this triumph thing, but now its a bit of an urgency.
This one worked good until I re assembled it with the oil!
I have a spare basket but it is deeper. I am going to try refurbing this for a temporary fix.
the metal plates are all orig as are the friction ones, all old and tired looking!
In the end I completely disconnected the clutch cable, still no clutch, complete slip, the cork had burnt to powder
email (option): hutman80@hotmail.com
Was a Tony Hayward Belt Drive Conversion assembly using a converted Suzuki GS500 Clutch there the clutches to go for bullet proof all the Goldies have them in now especially for racing..there plug and play once set up and leave them alone... totally trouble free.
Worth while conversion as well the Susy GS500 Clutch is cheap as well.
Go for that instead of dicking about with the BEEZA 6 Spring pressed shit steel affair.throw it far away into the nettles and long grass where it belongs.
Some info here..there is a few company's doing the belt drives now Newby" "Haywards"....Tonys is good either run it dry or wet..
I have my Racing BSA A70 Spec on the Belt Drive with Modified Racing Clutch also.
Give him a call you will never get off the phone again....he will tell you all about Belt Drives,Clutches and BSA Wiring Looms etc etc etc!!!
http://www.motorcyclewebsite.com/home/a0_T/a0_TO/i99_Tony_Hayward
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73618&showall=1
http://www.bsagoldstar.co.uk/price_list/price_list.htm
Phil Pearson basically an adapted Suzuki GS500
For trouble free riding and updating your steed.
"The only problem I can't get rid of is the draggy ness and clunky gearchange."
I had this problem on my B33 until only a few days ago. What you need is more lift on the pressure plate. If the pressure plate lifts cleanly off the friction/plain plates then squareness of the pressure/friction & plain plates is not so crucial.
My remedy was to fit a clutch lever with larger distance pivots... (how can I explain this?) this gave me an extra quarter of an inch lift of the pressure plate, the result is that I can now select neutral gear and first gear while stationary.
Another good modification on the six spring clutch is to fit the newly designed bearing that Draganfly sells, at only about £12, you cant go too far wrong with it.
Click on the thumbnail picture to enlarge it. This will explain the pivot suggestion.
I have just replaced my burnt out chainwheel with another spare one I had.
I cleaned all the plates with petrol, I sanded them a bit, I filed the basket slots, I cleaned and keyed the basket inserts (this time they are proper friction stuff with plenty of meat)
I did all of that and it still slips!
Whats going on? Maybe the springs are not tight enough, but i did them up quite a way
email (option): hutman80@hotmail.com
You install all the clutch plates in the correct order????
Has to be this...check your clutch set up on BSA Service sheet.
Use your kick start..Check when you pull the clutch in the front thrust plate is running as near true & center as possible,you will need to tweak tighten/slacken with the 6 screws on the springs for a happy medium of running true to balance out any high spot.
Are your plates True? and flat,you set up your clutch clearance correct? Thrust Rod and Ball all correct?
Not the best clutch in the world,but they do work,need to check your set up from beginning then adjust and check your clearances center nut? screw driver nip up gently then back out 1/2-3/4 turn nip up the nut,then cable to lever leave about 1/8" free play on the lever with cable adjuster on gear box.
Adjust in the the 6 screws on the springs flush to the studs then tweak to run central,kick it over clutch it and adjust out high and low spots till you get it true.
Should now have a clutch!