A few years back I had full stud kits made for the M20..these included all the engine to frame studs, gearbox mounting bolts and the footrest bar with all the necessary nuts and washers.
I am currently discussing this job with a manufacturer with a view to doing the kit again.
However, I am undecided whether to produce the kit in stainless steel or in a plated finish.
Producing it in stainless means there is no plating operation and obviously no future corrosion issues.
Producing it in a plated finish will mean either a zinc or cadmium finish. Zinc plating may have a price advantage over stainless but there are durability issues.
Cadmium plating (the original finish)costs more and I have had problems with a form of mould that leaves marks on the plating..as the plater has been unable to resolve this so far, currently that is not an option.
All opinions on the subject welcome..stainless steel or zinc plated?...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Hi ian

Whatever you choose, count me fir a set

Stainless has to be best fir long term use though

Besr regards

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

As you know Ian, I'm not a potential buyer but opinions are like a*se'oles so I've got one !

Is it not possible to produce both types or do you get into batch costs again ?

Personally, I'd seek out NOS and used rather than go to stainless but I suspect commercially that most punters like it. If cadmium is not an option, might it not be better to supply unfinished and let the customer finish to match the rest of his machine (or does the modern buyer expect 'ready to fit' ?)

i'm in the blasted stainless camp...anything else down here rusta off in a couple of weeks !!!!!!!!!!!!!

email (option): chris.astinbarker@btinternet.com

stainless has got to be the way to go as long sa it is dull and not polished,at least if a spanner slips there is no plating to damage

Count me in for stainless. By the time its driven for awhile, everything is covered in oil anyway. Mine are at the platers for zinc at the moment.

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Ian, for what it's worth, I like mild steel and a little natural oxidation on a bike. It gives a motorcycle a "lived in" look. That's why we have grey hair and wrinkles.

Put another way: Stainless is painless, but rust is a must.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

My personal view is that stainless is the way to go...but you all know that from previous postings on the subject!! Saying that though I didn't used to use it when Cadmium was cheap and easily available. I have to say when it is bead blasted and it has been in place for a while it looks as close to cadmium as you can get without actually having it..and you only have to pay for it once.
Thanks for all the input...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Danny...Then I guess stainless is 'cosmetic surgery' to keep your M20 looking young!!(a nuts job?) ...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Count me in for a set. Stainless please

email (option): micran1234@yahoo.com

I agree with Danny, but I fear that I have to go with the stainless mob...

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

I'll say stainless, as my cadmium platers have closed down!

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

I'd certainly like a set, as and when. Not quite convinced by the stainless arguments but I could get used to the idea, especially if bead blasted as Ian suggests - would that be done before purchase or would it be a buyer's task? For me, the important thing is to have them made with proper BSC threads and not something more convenient from the manufacturer's point of view (with apologies to all those Dutchmen who enjoy converting their bikes to Metric!).

Chris J

i dont know you lot stainless or plated PAINT IT that solves the problem and will look like it would when the squaddies got hold of the bikes

email (option): roger.beck@node6.com

I just hate trying to undo nuts and bolts that have been painted. Usually the spanner wont fit the nut, then you have to spanner the nut all the way because of paint in the thread. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com