Hi all.
My rims are really rusty on my m20 and while Jake is sorting out my forks I have decided to do something about it. I was thinking about getting them blasted as it seems like the easiest/quickest option but I am not sure if this is a good idea. Once they are cleaned up though, do I get them powder coated, paint them myself and if so what with or do I forget all that and get them rebuilt with a lovely bit of stainless. The bike is nowhere near standard so I am just looking for something that will last a while, look good and in keeping with the era.
Thanks in advance.
Tony

email (option): tonydgray@btinternet.com

Hi Tony...On my 47 girder fork M21 (which had black wheels as standard) I did pretty much what you describe...I got it all blasted and powder coated.
The rims weren't heavily pitted though so the finished result was pretty good. The powder coating provides a very durable base coat for a respray should you need to apply some 'stopper' afterwards to lose pitting. You can apply any paint over it afer 'keying' the surface with some medium wet and dry.On my military bikes I have everything powder coated as a base coat before spraying with an undercoat and military finish. Bear in mind if you powder coat the whole wheel you will not be able to tension any spokes afterwards without damaging the finish so coated/sprayed rims and stainless spokes might be the best option...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Some of the heavy abrasive during the sand blasting process really destroys what is heavily corroded. On the smaller areas that break through the metal, it is recommended by some powder experts, to seal those areas, with JB Weld as it tolerates temperatures of 400/500 Degrees Fahrenheit.

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

Hey there, I had mine blasted and powder coated and I really liked the results. Fine a place that does mediablasting with Soda, as it is less destructive... alternatively you could set up yourown soda/electro bath and let some current remove the crap for you, and its not too hard to make either.

As for the powder, I love the fact it doesnt scratch, and its easy to clean.

Brad

email (option): niteshade underscore TA at hottymail dot com

I double-coated the rims with matte RAL6014, and afterwards they will be painted with my favourite blend of mud brown plus green pigment added.
The spokes and nipples were also coated; I made a special jig for that, will take pics tomorrow. With this method you can still adjust spoke tension.
And if your rim is so deeply pitted that you can't grit-blasted them for fear of blasting through the metal, you'd better buy new rims for your own security! They will cost you here in the Netherlands some E100 - 120, considerably less than a hospital bill...

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

hospitals are free here but the dentist will cost you a fortune and you can guarantee it will be the front wheel that will give way

Thanks to all, as usual some very helpful information and I had overlooked the spoke adjustment aspect
Cheers
Tony

email (option): tonydgray@btinternet.com