After seeing a few Indian made Tachos for sale recently, I was wondering what the tell tale signs are to distinguish a ww2 military one from a copy. Faces can be replaced, rims (WD are rounded brass I think, none have a light.

There is mark on the back of this one, the rivet hole is there, the rim is recent replacement, the fitment for the cable looks old, the face clearly is and the needle looks to be old, I'm after a brass rim should there be any about.

email (option): kit247@hotmail.com

Kit, the Indian ones are a different shape on the rear, they have a slight step and then a bit with a smaller diameter

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Hi Dave, had a little ride on Sunday, lovely..

I know we were talking about getting mine done, on toying with the idea of buying a project, I found one through the chap I originaly bought the m20 from, He told me it was 40's WD & come from Holland, so I bought it on a whim, for not a bad price really all considered, my thinking is its always good to have a spare, I can use it when I send my one off.

email (option): kit247@hotmail.com

Original WD 85mph Smiths Speedo's were supplied with a Smith's-marked aluminium rivet inserted through the body and engaging with the cutaway in the brass rim....

Rumour has it that this was done to stop DR's fiddling their mileages, but I suspect the real answer was to ensure that a faulty speedo (and the accompanying warranty) was not invalidated by workshops or individuals attempting repair.....

Were these items to be returned to Smiths for repair ??? Or were (later in the war ?) workshops qualified to fix defective items ????

Early wartime (1939-40) speedo's are a different matter. Some still featured the Jaeger-type screw-attached cable drive, and sometimes feature a brass or aluminium plate on the reverse, providing a serial number and date......

In the case of early WD Matchless G3's...some of these feature a trip facility AND illumination !!!!

I seem to remember, though not clearly!! that the marking on the back (the disc divided into 12) was, or should have been, punched to indicate month and year of manufacture...is that right or am I moving into the realms of fantasy?...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

makes sense.....we have these 'date marks' in injection mould, however from 5 cases (early ones seem to be smaller) none are actually punched.