Hi Guys, I am looking for some late war tin folded clutch and brake levers that were fitted to the WD G3L Matchless and probably other makes. If anyone can help or point me in the right direction where I might locate some I would be very grateful. Thanks John Tinley

email (option): tinley@btinternet.com

In tin?
I have some of these in pressed steel, which I thought were Norton. The cable stop is a seperate item (a round cup, with just a central hole for the inner cable), sort of pressed into the 'pivotting pillar'-part of the handle.

Must try to dig out what I have, if and when I find my camera, I will pst some photographs.

email (option): rvanmeel@wanadoo.nl

John, I've got a pair on my M20. Meanwhile, I'm looking for some in brass. Will swap, trade, buy, part-ex, three-way swap, or what have you if there's any mileage here. I don't know if these levers are rare, commonplace, valuable, or cheap. But there you have it. They're just levers to me, but I like the look of brass.

P.S. I don't even know if brass ones are available, except for those combination levers (or whatever they're called) that fetch horrendous prices. Any advice from anyone on what is available and suitable will be appreciated.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

Can I just add that the pressed steel matchless levers are nothing like the pressed steel levers fitted to Norton's late war. The Matchless levers usually have a brass part that clamps to the handlebar. The steel lever has a kind of rivet for a pivot rather than the normal nut/bolt. The Norton levers are much more wrapped round, and almost look like solid levers from a distance. Unfortunately all mine are gone so can't post a pic. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks, LJ. I'll check then out. My levers are just clamp on. They don't look too exciting, except that I quite like the economy of design, etc. And like I said, they're just levers to me and haven't made any difference to the running. Might be of use to someone else, however.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

The 'replica' lever blades that I have had a close look at aren't too good...firstly they appear to be brass, not bronze and casting and machining looked fairly crudely done and inaccurate. It's 99.999% likely these are Indian made...to the usual low standard .The Czech made (complete)levers of the same pattern are very well made dimensionally but unfortunately they chose to make the blades in steel..even though the rest is correct. So they are an option, but would need to be dull chromed to look the part (as some of the originals were)..Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Ian, what's the difference between brass and bronze, from a technical point of view? I used the two words fairly indiscriminately/carelessly. Evidently, I need some educating.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

Hi Danny...Both bronze and brass are copper based alloys. In bronze the copper is alloyed with tin and in brass, zinc. Both materials can have additional materials added to alter their characteristics for different applications.
It's a complicated subject but bronzes are generally measurably harder and stronger than brasses.
In the case of the levers made with bronze wear at the pivot points and nipple holes will take longer to occur than with those made of brass.
A lot of modern 'decorative' brass items are manufactured from brass scrap...and the Indians produce a lot of that type of thing. It is likely the levers will be made in the same way with a consequent lack of control of the material specification.
The original bronze levers, on the other hand, would more than likely have been 'first generation' material with a tightly controlled spec. Looking at original complete lever sets it appears of the various parts some were brass and some bronze. For a long service life though, steel levers would be the better choice...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Ian, thanks for that. Guess I'm keeping my steel levers then.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

Hey John, I have one spare. It has had a slot put in it at some time, shouldn't be too hard to repair.


Cheers, Mick.

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk

Hi Mick..I found a NOS one in amongst my bits so now John has a pair. The handlebar mounts are the same as the other types (apart from the bigger pivot pin hole) so it shouldn't be too difficult to make up the rest...Ian

I've already emailed JT.....

To set the record straight.....

No such thing as "late war pressed tin levers"....

In late-1944 the WD introduced standardised 7/8ths controls on all new production for most makes...check out a late Ariel W/NG parts list for a good illustration...

These levers were of Amal design and were individual items, not combination. The air, mag & decompressor levers feature a "flat" finger arm and a securing clamp attached by 2 screws....they do not usually carry any manufacturers marks as they were made by both Amal & Bowden, although the odd decompressor has been seen bearing an Amal marked clamp....

These levers were made from cast alloy, brass and steel, including the clutch and brake....

Pressed steel/alloy levers only featured on 1942/43-onwards Norton's (brake & clutch).....

Early production G3L's as part of the weight-reduction exercise featured the illustrated pressed steel brake & clutch levers mounted onto standard cast-brass Bowden combination mounts....to use these levers you should note that they required special cables & ferrules, featuring long "square" profile nipples (ooh err missus !)......

Talking of G3L's, early production features 7/8ths Bowden combinations with the pressed steel clutch & brake, mid-42 production equipped with Amal lighting reverted to standard Bowden combination & Miller-equipped machines featured single Amal controls with the air & mag levers featuring the lower "hinged clamp" fitting and "ball ended" tops to the finger controls....1943-4 saw a reversion to Bowden and then late-44 saw the standardised controls introduced....

Simples....

Many thanks to everyone for their answers but particularly to Mick and Ian for their kind offers of a lever each. Cheers John

email (option): tinley@btinternet.com

Was it only AMC that used the pivot pin with the tag?

email (option): robmiller11@yahoo.co.uk

I knew Steve would be able to clear that up!

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk

I know a fair bit about cables, ferrules and pins, but I have a better working knowledge of nipples....:o)