My recently purchased WLC looks like it had been standing since the late 1970's. The tax disc shows 1977. The battery is very big (about 26 amp hour) and not too easy to buy in the UK. The old uk made Exide battery was completely dead as you might imagine. It seemed a shame to write it off so I connected it to my Accumate and left it. Nothing seemed to happen for several weeks (no volts) but eventually it came back to life, eventually showing 5 volts. At this point I popped three Battaid pills in each cell. One week later and it now shows 7 volts (could be my meter, should be 6 I guess). For some reason the Accumate was would not go to green and showed the uncharged amber LED. I connected it to the old bike and it seems to work. Rear lights and horn only.

Has anyone else done a similar thing? Can I expect the battery to last?

I notice that the WLC lights are quite small and the one on the right (brake light) is very directional, it only shows from directly behind and it is quite dim (expect earths and connections are a bit corroded by now). Will these WLC light set ups get through a UK MOT? At least it has a brake light unlike my wm20.

Regards
Paul

Hi Paul

Discharged batteries can sometimes have sulphated cells (long periods of inactivity or deeply discharged due to alarms etc) and are as a result unable to function. Recovery is not normally possible using conventional automotive battery chargers.
However, chargers such as your accu mate and other trade orientated chargers (specifically for modern type batteries) provide a different type of charge, almost like having a pulsating effect, the result being the breakdown of this sulphated layer. This can take some time, dependent on each instance.8

This is what is suspect has happened in your case.

We conducted our own tests in work due to a high return rate under warranty of batteries. Using a charger similar to an accu mate 98% of the returns were recovered.

If you Pop to maplins, get yourself 2 x 4.5a 6v dry batteries, connect them in parallel, you need not worry after that. Both will fit inside a black battery box hollowed out. Mine were outside in the recent cold snaps & are still perfect

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Those 4.5Ah 6V Maplin batteries are very good. I used a couple on a Matchless for a while. I should get at least three in the Battery space. Would need to make a carrier or cannibalise the old Exide battery. I hope they can be used on their side.
Paul

Hi John,
Interested in the Maplin batteries you mention. Do you have a part number? Also, forgive my stupidity but electrics are not my strong point, in parallel means positive to positive and negitive to negitive?
Many thanks for the help.
Regards
Clive

Hi Clive
No part numbers tonight but can try to look tomorrow night for you

If you connect both 6v batteries in parallel (+ve to +ve & -ve to -ve) with secure wire links, you achieve 6v output but increase your amperage by the total of the 2 batteries. Best to use similar sizes.

In series, +ve to -ve you increase your voltage but retain your amperage, so 2 x 6v batteries in series give you 12v.

Try google "batteries in series " they have some good & simple illustrations

Hope this helps, am drawing on memories of years ago !!

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

I used a Westco AGM from Paul Goff

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybatteries.htm

13aH and it fits in an Ian Wright replica box. I haven't yet found a better power / weight ratio.

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Rik

I'll be looking for a slightly bigger 1940 dated battery box to fit a traction battery in.

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Right you've started something now Ian. I want a Ni-Fe for my KC10 and WD/D. When will they be ready? Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

There seems to be a fair bit of interest in the early bikes fitted with the 'NIFE' battery..probably sufficient to make the exercise worthwhile....but is there an existing battery that can be used as a pattern????.....Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com