Today I rebuilt my clutch. I bought a NOS clutch sleeve from Russell's, new plates from Ian Wright, NOS spring from C&D and used the tool made by John Allison. As usual I have left out, one friction and one steel plate. This works well for me and gives a nice light clutch. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Is the tool made out of a piston?? Clever!

oooH!! look at the flash spring compressor us oldens that dont have stand drill and even no electricy in our shed have to do with the ordinary bolt type compressor

Yes Sam, John made the tool from an old piston. Roger, no pedestal drill or electricity is required with the spring compressor. It can be done on the bike with the central threaded bar. I just did it that way since I have those luxuries in my shed

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I'm going to have to redefine my understanding of 'shed' Ron ! That's like calling the Imperial War Museum a 'display cabinet'

If I didn't have power in the workshop, I'd have a pillar drill in the kitchen - "It's a food mixer, dear !"

Rik you've not been to Rons 'shed' then i take it ? The imperial war museum houses Ron's reserve collection

email (option): jennycook163@hotmail.com

Hi All ive had the pleasure of being with ron last week Keep an eye on www.fieldandrurallife.com nov issue !!Ron has his own monthly !!!! sorry Ian you might have been upstaged!! possible BAFTA

email (option): john@fieldandrurallife.com

love the chatter, but here is a question, why remove a plate and disk? Mine is very light by most bike standards,or do I have a very weak spring?

Graig. I just took advice from Ian years ago that it was quite acceptable to do. Especialy as the modern friction plates can be a bit thicker than the originals, making the clutch basket a bit crowded. As Ian said at the time " you can always add the extra plates as the clutch wears" But It's so light and never slips that I just leave it that way. As you say craig, maybe your spring is weak or your plates are worn down or both? But if it aint broke..... Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

also the single spring isnt always square and this make the clutch drag a bit when open so taking out a set of plates can give a bigger gap between plates when clutch lever is pulled fully in i have read on this site that some members think a longer clutch rod is needed though i am using standard length rod

Well I'm just thinking about that one Roger. A longer rod won't give any more lift. You'd still get the same amount of movement plus your lever at the gearbox would be at a funny angle. But yes some more room in the clutch basket is sometimes advantages. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi All, Removing a couple of plates is an old dodge to overcome the problem of clutch drag. Wear in the clutch roller assembly can contribute to a loss of lift as the sprocket 'lifts' a little along with the clutch plates.
Also if the clutch spring has settled 'out of square' due to extended use the plates don't lift squarely, which also reduces their inclination to fully separate.
The resulting drag can be impossible to eradicate without fitting new components.
Removing a pair of plates simply creates more space in the clutch basket for the plates to separate and compensates for the factors mentioned. It has no effect on the ability of the clutch to operate without slipping. Some shortening of the pushrod may be required to allow the operating arm on the gearbox to be correctly set.
With or without this modification the M20 clutch is generally fairly light in operation due to the mechanical advantage provided by the long operating arm...Ian

email (option): julie@wright52.plus.com

Thanks to all for the info. When I got the bike it came with what looked like a set of NOS friction plates(rings). I assembled it with those and all works well, so no point in messing with it.?