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Re: Cylinder head oil

rings installed with staggered gaps ?

email (option): richardpurkiss@hotmail.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Richard Purkiss
rings installed with staggered gaps ?
HI Rich,
Saw you breify last week in Brecon military fair, I went over to say hello and you disappeared,
Yes they were staggered 👍

email (option): Alwyndart@gmail.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Ok I've just made a new disc from a piece of commercial vehicle mudflap I purloined from a previous life, would the breather not working force oil past the rings and on to the piston top? One more thing how many miles do I need to do before I could consider in run in,
Thanks for everyone's responses
Alwyn

email (option): Alwyndart@gmail.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Mark Cook
Starting to sound like a rebore and new piston :(
I just assumed that it has had a rebore? Alwyn??

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Yes, you are correct Ron it has had a rebore less than 25 miles ago, I'll double check the head bolt lengths again in the morning before I aneal the gasket and.......start again 😂
Alwyn

email (option): Alwyndart@gmail.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

As Ian suggested, you can often get some oiling till the rings bed in. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Did you anneal the head gasket before fitting it ?
As supplied most gaskets are some where between 1/2 to full hard because soft copper does not cut on a punch cleanly
If full soft you can leave a cresent indentation by rolling your thumb nail across it
The breather is a standard flap valve and needs to be hard, fairly sure it is bakealite
It does not move when you blow or suck through it because you can not do it fast enough or strong enough
Best test is to remove the pipe then hold some tissue near the outlet
You should see it blow quite hard but suck just a little

Re: Cylinder head oil

The flap valve material was 'Tufnol'...The same material that carb heat insulation washers and some electrical components are made from...I test the flap valve operation before fitting it to the crank case...It's easy to operate by 'blowing and sucking' when off the engine...Interestingly there are three versions of the fitting that holds the flap valve in place. BSA made changes both to the air capacity and material of the fitting at various times...OHV engines also use a larger diameter breather pipe than the side valves...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Hello,
I didn't aneal the gasket because when I bought it from someone on this forum he stated it didn't need anealing as the copper was soft enough from new. I will aneal it when I refit it now for sure. As for the flap material I assumed it was made from a hard rubber and that mine had gone hard...DOH it's meant to be like that.
I've only anealed copper washers in the past and they turn dark when quenched, do you do anything to clean the gasket after anealing?
Thanks Alwyn

email (option): Alwyndart@gmail.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Some people say you have to get the whole gasket cherry red, But I hang them on a hook and chase the red round with a gas torch. I never bother to quench, it works just the same if you quench or cool slowly. Once cool I clean them with wire wool on a flat surface.

Jan V. Who works with copper, told me that my method is quite acceptable and that's how he does it too. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Thanks for that Ron 👍

email (option): Alwyndart@gmail.com

Re: Cylinder head oil

Hello Chaps,
Just a quick update on the problem I reported just before Christmas, I anealed the copper gasket that had failed and refited it with welseal and it still leaked. I took it back off again but this time there was substantially less oil on the top of the piston than the first time, (suggesting Mr Wright knows what he's talking about)😂😂
I had a spare new copper gasket and this time I anealed it before fitting even though it felt soft at the start, afterwards it was very pliable indeed, Again I used a very thin coating of welseal on all surfaces as recommended by Ron, I torqued everything a couple of times and it looks like the Jobs a good-un. What did we recommend on running in miles 400-500?

A big thank you to all for your help and Happy New year to Everyone.

Best Regards Alwyn.

email (option): Alwyndart@gmail.com

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