Thanks guys, slowly getting my head around the little quirks that are G3L parts.
Hey Lex. I thought it best to ask here, rather than a million questions to you every week. :grin:
I have decided to get some Doherty controls and give them a make over to look more ....old. :laughing: They should hold me over as I search for the unfindable.
Exhaust is going to be an experiment. If original was Dull Finish plating, then I will go with a sand blast finish to reduce surface smoothness to give a dull finish and then Nickel Plate to stop rust. Hopefully it works, if not, then I can always paint.
I seem to be buying a lot of ....toys. Bought a parts washer and Shop press yesterday, today it was a soda blaster for some little parts that need tweaking. Everything else gets electrolysis or vapour blasted.
Tried the shop press out, and easily pushed out a few bushes from the gearbox. Much easier process than I could have imagined.
Ron - Just looking at the levers (brake & clutch) in your photos. Are the lever blades correct as they look to be non solid pressed steel - the Bowden levers I have are the same as yours i.e. brass air and mag but with solid brass brake and clutch levers. When I acquired them they appeared to be WD as they were covered in post war bronze green paint.
For those of us who decide on repro levers, until I can find originals, the handlebar is 7/8" and not 1", but I see comments relating to pivot distance and have seen measurements of between 7/8' and 1'1/16" for this distance.
I assume too short and there is not enough pull for the clutch activation and obviously a big issue for braking.
Is there a specific pivot distance required for the G3L?
Keith if you look at the parts list illustration that Alun posted. Those are the exact levers I have. They were the Bowden lightweight type as fitted to G3L's until the change to standard Amal levers. That change took place at Frame 39512.
The type you refer to are the earlier (pre war) type as fitted here on my G3. Ron
For those of us who decide on repro levers, until I can find originals, the handlebar is 7/8" and not 1", but I see comments relating to pivot distance and have seen measurements of between 7/8' and 1'1/16" for this distance.
I assume too short and there is not enough pull for the clutch activation and obviously a big issue for braking.
Is there a specific pivot distance required for the G3L?
Cheers
Al
I just measured the pivot distance on both sets of my Bowden levers and they're all 1 1/16" centers. Ron
Keith if you look at the parts list illustration that Alun posted. Those are the exact levers I have. They were the Bowden lightweight type as fitted to G3L's until the change to standard Amal levers. That change took place at Frame 39512.
The type you refer to are the earlier (pre war) type as fitted here on my G3. Ron
Thanks Ron - a font of knowledge indeed - I acquired a couple of sets of the all brass Bowden levers and used a set on the second Big 4 as I only had one set of original levers for the Big 4 and those seem to be pretty scarce.
I have not forgotten the photo you asked me for - have not been in the garage for a while I'm afraid but I will get it done for you.
I seem to have lost the little round brass fixing from my G3L break lever (the thing that secures the actual break cable nipple to the break lever - the pressed light weight type - identical to Ron’s in the photo in this thread)
I must of lost it when I removed the break cable last year ??😐
Can any kindly advise me where I may be able to purchase another?
I’m not sure what they are called and have searched all known part lists online.