I just put my rear stand spring on. With the stand up the wheel axle just barely clears the spring lever that is on the stand. If you slide the rear wheel back then the rear stand can't go all the way up because it hits the nut. Also the spring has to bend around the axle when up, looks like it is trying to push spring off. I could heat and bend the stand lever out just a little and it would make the spring clear the end of the axle. Any photos of how it is supposed to look? OH, it does work whe way it is just don't look right.

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com

Hi L D, why not post a few pictures? then the experts can see the problem first hand to give an answer.A description is your word,a picture ,worth a thousand words.
cheers Rick

email (option): richardholt@rocketmail.com

OK here you go.

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com

I bought a new rear axle from Draganfly for mine which was far to long and fouled the spring. I had to saw it off just past flush with the outside of the nut. Your nut doesn't look fully tight yet and therefore you can remove some of the excess axle. As you say, you could also heat and tease the spring bracket out a little if required. Ron

PS, post war frame and Airel silencer?

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

if you look at the last picture the flanged washer is not seating in the frame slot making the nut sit proud and fouling the stand spring

I already mentioned that in my reply Roger. However, tightening the nut will only produce more spindle thread. It's for that reason I suggested removing some of the length to the spindle......or bend the bracket out. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Where to start ?
If this is on a WM20 the whole set up looks wrong.
The flanged nut is wrong and is clearly fouling on the mudguard stays.
the correct one is smaller.
The nut next to the bearing cap looks wrong as well , On mine ( which may also be wrong there is a plain spacer ).
I have a sneaking suspission that your frame is spaced too wide at the rear axel and had a few late model rigid parts mixed up in there.
The other thing which gave me grief was the hole in the frame rail was well & truly flogged out we had to weld a bolt in it and redrill the hole

email (option): wariron@tpg,com,au

Some clarification on what parts/era LD is building/repairing would help. It\\\'s clearly a post war frame. There is no cotton reel spacer and the hub has no holes for the QD bolts in the brake drum. I\\\'m not at all familier with post war models Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

It is a 1954 M21. I got this bike disassembled so I might not have all the right things. However, the two points where the spring attaches are not parallel with the longitudinal axis of the bike and beside that the nut and axle are right in the way. When I put the stand up it has to bend around and rub over the nut and axle. As mentioned when I tighten the nut, that will help. I cut the axle, that will help. If I bend the bracket on the stand out, that will help but it will just put the spring alignment more out. Now if indeed this is the way it is supposed to be, I will leave it alone. If it isn't supposed to be that way I would like to know how it should be. A photo of how others look would be nice.
L.D.

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com

Nother question rather than new thread. Where does the brake torque arm fit. Pictures I can find show somewhere close to brake peddle pivot. I don't see a place there.
L.D.

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com