I purchased this bike from a fellow here in Wisconsin USA and have the complete ownership from when the bike was imported into th bus in the early 1970s. I have no history of it before then. the engine and frame do not match, not even close but I think id like to restore it to the frame number making it a earlier version 1940 wish? frame number is WM20 26393 and engine number 103203. Im painting it an early color called berkshire green. Any info would be greatly appreciated and info on colors and such. Trying to restore as correctly as possible and as much as my wallet can handlle> thanks much Matt

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

Hi Matt and welcome!

The BSA with frame number WM20.26393 was built under military contract C/7287. This was a contract for 17.000 motorcycles (frame numbers 25001 - 42000). Your bike left the factory in September 1940, and would have had the census number C4342985 on the petrol tank.

What happened with the bike during the war is anybody's guess. There are no such records. What we do know is that it was still in service in 1949, when the new ERM number system was introduced. Under the new ERM system the bike was now re-numbered 23YE85. By now it had also lost its original engine.

The bike was disposed off by the British Army on 16/2/1970. This information can be found on KeyCard number 624a. (Lex can make you a hi-res scan of this card for a modest sum.) Hundreds of ex-British Army WM20's were exported to the USA during the 1970's, through the Belgian port of Antwerp.

Here's a line up of contract C7287 bikes, to give you an idea of how the early bikes looked like. The colour was Khaki Green N°3.



And here's another YE registered WM20 in the BAOR (British Army on the Rhine):

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

Jan, did this bike have a "Rebuild" census number in the Key Cards ? Although not a really "early" bike with all the differences that were present in 1939 up until the Fall of France, if it now has a small fuel tank etc. then the most straightforward "accurate" restoration would be in the style of a late-war rebuild.

In the current circumstances, sourcing early parts from Europe (where they're not that common anyway) would be a long slog and a 1944-onwards rebuild would not be far off shade in U.S. Olive Drab.

Yes, contact me on the email here, no probs,

Lex

email (option): welbike@outlook.com

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

I take it then that the very green gloss color (Berkshire?) would not be correct for this bike, also from the posts on here I may be better off going with the motor number as a restoration. I wanted to go for the fall of France look. Guess I may have to rethink that.

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

Jan you are correct on the “long slog” but feel a late war bike has been done way to much in my opinion. Not sure what direction to go. Matt

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

A gloss green was used both pre-war and afterwards. Usually referred to as "Deep Bronze Green" New vehicles had been matt dark green and then matt Khaki Green for a year or two before the war though and most were repainted in a matt finish when war broke out.

Far be it from me to discourage anyone from a 1940 restoration. Your later 1940 bike, whilst still having the large fuel tank and cap no longer has the valanced deluxe rear mudguard. The oil pressure tell-tale had gone too, but still with the rather special control levers and an early type rear carrier (which is nice as no need for the admittedly useful but heavy as hell panniers and frames).

Which fuel tank do you have ?

I’m not sure what tank it has as I’m learning. Here are some pictures of it at the 2024 MVPA National and on the day I picked it up. I’ve since disassembled it and am priming. The cool part is the second seat, strange and complicated set up.




I’m

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

Matt you have the late style petrol tank with the cut off corner for a tank top (Vokes) air cleaner. Both number plates are a post war add on. Your pillion saddle looks like the "short" Acumen (Correct for later war). And of course you have the rear carrier and field stand for the pannier set up. Your riders saddle also is a later universal type.

If you want to go the ex factory route? The first and hardest part to find would be the early larger "balloon" tank with early cap. Most of those other early parts are available as good reproductions, by enquiring via this site. Ron

PS here is my own 1940 WM20 that served till the 60's and had lost lots of those early parts. I restored it as a later war rebuild, and as already stated, those panniers are very handy, especially for camping.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Rik , a lot to think about for sure. When I first started this I bought a wire harness from someone in Europe that reproduced them and bought the early harness with leads that were longer for the early horn just to find out that the 11?? Horns are super hard to find so I kinda am getting all mixed up on this. I’m already at a loss with whiteish and fine and coarse and then BSC or CEII threaded nuts and bolts so I’m just going super slow now!!! My WLA was no where as easy as the WLA or my GPW. It is challenging for sure. Yours looks SOOOO nice. Very envious. Another reason I was going to go early was for a nefarious reason that may hurt some feelings but was going to use it at reenactment s as a German early war capture as non of my British stuff fits anymore but seems I’ll be scraping that idea as going early may just not very adventagous. 🤔🫤
So first thing dump the fender plates. I have no brackets for the passenger footrests, mine are bolt on like yours, late war? I’ll start with frame and build from there. Matt

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

It's Ron! Not Rik. Rik is a Norton guy. The lack of cast on lugs for the pillion footrests was early (Around 39-41) before they started fitting a pillion seat as standard. BSA made bespoke clamp on lugs for this earlier period. Ron



And the instructions for when the panniers and pillion were retro fitted.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Oops sorry , Rik is actually a freind I write from the Netherlands, he’s a Harley guy.😏 Buta Rik on here to I got to be more careful attention to detail, taking into much i guess🤔
That’s what I had hoped and figured on with the foot pegs but had to ask as they are so genetic they look like someone made them so I had to ask. Thanks for the detailed pics, now to order nuts and bolts!!! Matt

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

Your one-stop-shop for BSC nuts & bolts.

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

I have a lot of the correct fasteners in stock. Most of the NOS
When I can't find anymore, I make exact replicas.
currently I'm making a batch of 15-0447 and 27-5446

https://pesltd.uk/?product=15-0447
https://pesltd.uk/?product=27-5446
https://pesltd.uk/?product=66-6740
https://pesltd.uk/?product=PES0025
https://pesltd.uk/?product=65-6794

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

Thanks Jan and Mark,
Definantly will be getting orders. This stuff is like unobtanian where I live; or is super cost prohibitive.

email (option): allied.airborne1@yahoo.com

Hi Matthew,

Here is a USA site I've used for BSC/CEI, BSW and BSF nuts and bolts. They have tools too.
https://britishfasteners.com/

Cheers, Scott

What you have to remember the BSA's were not built with commercial fasteners.
Well not many.
A lot have odd lengths and fancy heads.
Many of the pitches are unusual for the size.
Also, the thread diameter can be under or oversized to commercial fasteners.
Don't forget the washers! they can be strange too.

Mark.

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

That's even more so of Norton who never used a standard fastener and did their best to avoid preferred sizes too. No hexagon had any two identical measurements.