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Re: Crankshaft Assembly Questions

1) I always follow the description from a BSA publication I had years ago when it comes to the fit of the inner bearings...That said the bearings should push on by hand but not be slack...To achieve this, tight (or new) mainshafts should be reduced by hand with emery cloth strip to achieve the fit described....It's worked for me in scores of engines...

2)The oil flinger should be flat (not worn or distorted) where it fits against the face of the shoulder on the flywheel. The bearing inner is then pushed up against it...

3)Both bearing inners fit against the flywheel shoulder, taking into account the note at (2) about the flinger plate...With a flat flinger plate and the correct spacer between the drive side main bearings the crank will be correctly positioned within the crank case when the shock absorber nut is tightened...The spacer between the bearings should be unworn on the ends and measure up at 1.000"- 1.010" in length...The crank assembly is pulled up and locked in position against the outer drive side main bearing (which is fixed in the crankcase by the circlip) when the shock absorber nut is fully tightened...

4)Personally, I never Loctite the big end locking plate screws...Just use a screwdriver of the correct size and do them up tight...

Hope that helps...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Crankshaft Assembly Questions

Hi Ian,

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer all my questions it's grately appreciated.

Glenn

email (option): Glenn_mullan@postmaster.co.uk

Re: Crankshaft Assembly Questions

All that Ian has stated is correct.



My own personal preference for the bearing fit on the main shafts:

Outer ball bearings - hard push fit. If you need to bash the cases to get them together, it is too tight.

Inner roller bearings - press fit and should require some tapping to get them on to the shaft. If they slide on, I either replace the shaft or loctite the bearing on.

Re: Crankshaft Assembly Questions

Hi Bruce,

Thans fir your response. I'm assuming you just reduce the crank shaft size towards the ends to allow a greater clearance for the roller bearings?

Glenn

email (option): Glenn_mullan@postmaster.co.uk

Re: Crankshaft Assembly Questions

Glenn Mullan
Hi Bruce,

Thans fir your response. I'm assuming you just reduce the crank shaft size towards the ends to allow a greater clearance for the roller bearings?

Glenn
No I don't touch the shafts to make the diameter smaller. A little too tight is OK.

If you have shafts made to the correct dimensions, not bodged or worn out and good quality bearings, everything should fit together as is. BSA when making the bikes did not have someone modifying the shaft diameter to make the bearings fit. The motor went together as fast as possible.

On these old bikes, I mainly have to deal with main shafts that are too small from years of abuse and bearings spinning. If the roller bearings are a little too loose, I loctite them on. It the ball bearings are too loose, I replace the shaft as you can't loctite the balls on or you can never get the motor apart again without great difficulty.

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