Hi Ron,
Thank you kindly for the reply AND the very useful drawing as well (That'll help putting it back together again)
I eventually got the chain guard off... It had been walloped forward when the drum broke free, causing the chain guard to jam firmly between the chain case and engine, making me think it was bolted in somewhere... A couple of gentle taps with a mallet in the right direction freed it & out it came & was subsequently fairly easy to straighten out. (Phew!)
I just need to get the pannier rack, back carrier & the metalwork straightened out. Still not sure about the rear mudguard, it does look a bit wonky but I'm wondering if the stays will straighten that out when re-fitted... Time will tell.
Now, EVERY nut I put back on is getting locktight thread lock liberally applied!
For the rear brake torque arm bolt the correct castellated nut/split pin combo is the better solution IMO...Positively mechanically locked is 100% reliable...Ian
Am I misreading this? Everyone is writing about the brake plate when the original text mentions the brake drum becoming loose. This would point at the three bolts in the hub.
I assumed that his comment about a 10p bolt coming loose, must mean the brake anchor. I imagine that if the 3 hub bolts came loose, there would be some serious wobbling before anything parted company?? Ron
The drum wouldn't be able to rotate even in the very unlikely event all three bolts fell out...Without removing the wheel the three driving pegs in the drum would remain engaged with the holes in the hub....Ian
