Thank you guys for the quick reply and the praise about the work. :blush:
About the process:
I found it not that difficult - as long as you have the right setup on tools.
First we fixed the stump firmly in the shaft with screws all around - except of course for the place we wanted to rivet.
The riveting itself we did with a set of two hammers - one placed on the rivet we wanted to work on, the second was the hammering one with which we hit the first hammer placed on the overlapping rivetstump. This simply ruled out any slippage or miss on impact.
The most important part in this whole process was the counterpart - which I specially made from solid metal so that it can have a strengthening effect against the blows, keeps the rivet heads in place and also protects the stump and the shaft support from deformation. It is a bit longer than the stump itself (you can see it in the pictures - this metal cylinder).
I didn't believe it - but I also had to place a large anvil underneath so that every blow had its full effect.
As in many other such cases, the riveting was carried out crosswise, not in sequence, in order to distribute the tightening forces evenly.
That's all it was. If I had to do it again, I would only harden the counterpart - unfortunately it suffered from the blows and was deformed on the contact surfaces of the rivet heads. So it is no longer flat and can no longer be used.
I also noticed that the rivets all varied a little in length - even though they were NOS parts from the original packaging from back then. I selected then the longest ones from the set.
Now it's time to assemble. I will keep reporting! :v:
It may be an old wife's tale, but I was told as a child not to hit two hammers together as one might explode.
I'm not sure how it happened, a friend of mine had to have a piece of hammer head removed from his arm when he was an apprentice.
I don't think you'd be able to close a rivet with a dead blow hammer Ron, as they are normally plastic.
Though I think you can also buy hard faced ones.