A bit of mild steel tig welded in would do it...You may have to open up the original holes a little as the plug has to be of a large enough diameter to carry a 5/16" thread with some remaining wall thickness....That may not be the case but off the top of my head I can't remember the diameter of the shank on the original stand bolts....:relaxed: Ian
Thank You Ian ,
My Friend is a welding engineer and I am going to seek his advice regarding the material .
If He thinks it is safe to do so I will plug weld the holes with MIG on spray setting which will minimise heat input .
I will make a setup jig with the dimensions and position of holes before I do anything else .
That said I like Your idea of having the stand working as a bearing surface so may even try this ?
will make My mind up when I find out the weldability of the lugs .
Some are forged & some are cast
Lots of arguement about that o here which is why you put a dab on some where not important
If it does not take then you have cast malleable iron in which case it is Marks method
You do not want it to crack through because it was cast .
I Tig welded the rear frame lugs that take the rear wheel and stand without any problems....I've also tig welded other frame parts, footrests, S.arm fork yokes and rear brake levers over the years with the same results...(all BSA components)
I don't profess to be an expert on the subject of welding but I have the services of two coded welders when I need work done...In the past (my youth) I didn't really think about it very much, after that time I've asked the opinions of people who know more about it and to date have had good results...
I have to add some brackets to an all bronze welded lightweight Wasp Gold Star frame at some point in the near future and the correct method for that is my current concern...Cock ups are not an option as the frame cost me a lot of hard earned cash!!....:grimacing: Ian
