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Re: Essential tools for WM2O servicing ?

It's best to acquire either a C spanner or preferably a tube spanner to undo the crankshaft shock absorber nut if you want to avoid damaging it...Likewise for the clutch spring nut.
You'll need a magneto drive pinion extractor, a clutch sleeve puller and when you come to reassembly, a clutch spring compressor...

There are other tools it's advantageous to have if you want to remove the idler gear spindle and cam follower guides...
The crank assembly, if it needs attention, is another subject in itself...Ian

Re: Essential tools for WM2O servicing ?

Ian, you don't really need any of these fancy tools to work on a M20. It is well know that a very large hammer and a chisel will work! I have a M20 engine disassembled by this method. To remove the magdyno gear, they bashed on the magneto shaft which destroyed the threads, bent the shaft and broke off the back of the timing case. It did work and the gear did come off the shaft but they gave up putting it back together when they realized the magneto was now scrap. They also used the hammer to bash the end of the crank to remove the timing gear. Their method for splitting the flywheels was also very interesting.

Re: Essential tools for WM2O servicing ?

:laughing: ...Yes, I've seen a lot of work from the school of engineering that relies on brute force and bodgery...The secret is to regard tools as an investment, not an irritating overhead...Ian

Re: Essential tools for WM2O servicing ?

Correct !
A gibbon has worked on Mine at some time .
I intend to strip it right down and start afresh ..

As far as I know the frame is straight as the bike runs without pulling to either side but I would like to check this whilst the engine is out .is there a specialist in the North West area offering checking and frame straightening services that the forum can vouch for please ?

The forks have apparently been rebushed according to receipts there any issue I ought to be aware of when I strip these down ?

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Re: Essential tools for WM2O servicing ?

The back half of the frame is the most likely part to be out of shape...The quickest test you can do is to remove and replace the complete rear wheel...If you have to force the rear part of the frame open to get the wheel in, or conversely the frame has to be pulled in when the nuts are tightened there may be an issue...If you look on the technical section of the website there is a checking gauge shown and information on what to test under 'Frame alignment gauge'....
The front sections don't generally bend unless the bike has been run into something and that will usually show itself when the engine plate studs are removed...The frame will then spring into a different position as the bending forces are released causing misalignment between the frame stud holes and the engine plates...Also look for any slight bending of the top or down tubes...They should both be straight and a quick check with a straight edge laid along the tube will show up any problems there....It is highly likely there will be some, or a lot, of wear in the frame where the stand pivots as well...Ian

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