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Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

I think you will need to try new friction plates and springs Tom. I've a feeling that the springs come in different weights? My CO clutch is much heavier than my G and the clutches are the same type.

You should be able to avoid clutch slip when kick starting be using the valve lifter to get past the compression stroke before kicking it.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Thanks for the advice Ron, I'll get some parts on order from Hitchcocks.

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

I've received my new clutch plates and springs, so opened up my chain case and found that the bottom where the oil sits is full of metal grit. This is the second time after having done very few miles that this has occured, in quick succession. The sprocket, chain and clutch look to be undamaged. Where can the metal grit be coming from? I'm baffled!

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Tom you will have to pull the clutch off for full investigation. It might be the clutch or main shaft making contact with the inner chain case. They often need careful spacing to avoid either the clutch or final drive chain.

Take pictures as you go and send them or post them. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

PS. Have you got the two dished steel plates the right way round? I don't actually know if it is possible to fit them the wrong way? Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Daft question, it's not from the inside of the outer case is it ? Can Burman boxes suffer from too much end float ?

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Thanks gents, I'll take the clutch centre off as well and see if it's rubbing on the inner chain case somewhere. There's no evidence of it rubbing the inside of the outer chaincase and I can't hear anything when turning the engine over. On the enfield what stops the steel 'gland'(the thing that reduces down the size of the hole in the chain case and moves about to accommodate the gearbox moving) on the back of the inner chaincase from rubbing on the gearbox output shaft?

I'm pretty sure I have the dished plates the right way around.

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Tom the main shaft moves the steel disc as the primary chain is adjusted. As the shaft rotates it should bump the disc just out of touch. the disc is held by friction. I'll be interested to see what you find on disassembly. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Hi Ron,

I've stripped the hole clutch out and there's no sign of wear on the disc behind it, or anywhere! I can only conclude so far that it maybe grit that's making its way out of crevices after the shot blasting and powder coating?

I bought a new friction disc set for the clutch driving gear/plate. Unfortunately the new friction sets come with 7 holes instead of 5, which means you have to re-drill the driving gear. My god it's tough metal! I've gone through about 8 drill bits so far. HSS lasts about 30 seconds, Cobalt drill bits last about half a depth of hole and Tungsten Carbide tipped drill bits have got 90% of the way through all 7 holes but I've now destroyed 4 trying to get through the last 10%!

The saga continues...

email (option): tomillward@hotmail.com

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Blimey I don't think that material is meant to be drilled after it's been hardened. Could you not just have re-drilled the friction disc to line up with the original 5 holes? I don't think the redundant 7 holes would affect the clutch working.

I've seen some terrible after effects from grit blasted parts that haven't been cleaned properly. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Royal Enfield Clutch slipping

Hi Ron, re-drilling the friction material was in hindsight a better plan. I was concerned about breaking the friction material though.

I've now drilled through the clutch driving gear and reassembled it with new friction material and new friction plates. I'm now having a problem that the clutch is not disengaging properly. I've adjusted it as much as I can, but there doesn't seem to be enough free space in the clutch to allow it to fully disengage, and hence it drags and makes it difficult to get into neutral. I read elsewhere on the forum of a similar issue with replacement BSA clutch plates being too thick.

Does anyone know of a way to resolve this? Will the clutch wear down/bed in, or will I need to put the old plates back in? (They didn't seem worn and may well have been new when I put them in, but I don't remember as it was too long ago!).

I've not tried riding the bike yet so don't know how much the dragging will affect it?

Cheers,

Tom

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