I thought I started this before, but I can't find a trace.
This build is from a pile of bits that I either traded for or obtained by some other expensive means.
I still think for anyone wanting an old bike, buying a complete one that runs is the answer. Then spend lots of time and money fixing it, despite it being sold as "perfect"
I think the frame I have has changed hands many times, and unfortunately been subjected to "fixing" and modifying.
After lots of stress I think I've finally got it to a condition where it should be rideable.
Some of the errors in alignment of the rear frame could only be down to dangerous enthusiasts.
I did have it shot blasted in the hope of making it easier to repair.
The company I used had this done for me then kindly coated it in primer! So it had to be blasted again.
This has made it very difficult to "wet" the steel whilst bronze welding or brazing.
I think this poor frame has even been subjected to being held in a tree whilst straightening due to the dent in the top tube. For now it can stay.
I first noticed there was an issue with the rear wheel lugs as the Robb Nortier Alignment spindle was awkward to tighten. Not only did the faces not look at each other, hollows had formed from years of retightening the wheel spindles.
I faced these hollows with nickle bronze as it is quite hard, then filed them flat using the original castings as a gauge.
A seat lug had been cut off, so that needed replacing. Also where the field stand had been fitted the tube was crushed. This was also built up with nickle bronze.
I still need to make a new rear foot peg mount and repair the other.
The stop pin for the left hand wheel adjuster was cut flat so that had to be removed.
Quicker to type than do, I think I spend about 10 hours getting it in shape. I have a Motorliner Jig, but the workshop isn't big enough at the moment to use it. I think it would have been easier to have used it.
Not the nicest of pictures, but I never like to mislead by only showing the pretty stuff.
The next task will be to see how well the rack and panniers fit.
Please feel free to criticise ;)
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
Unhappy with the rear frame alignment I decided better accuracy was required, so I made three 300mm pins. 3/8", 7/16" and 3/4"
This enabled me to take better measurement. Unfortunately where the rear frame had been damaged from the field stand clamp my simple fix shrank the tube by what appeared to be 3mm.
At these times you have to be bold. Out with the hacksaw :(
Spreading the frame proved the issue as the alignment that I didn't like was corrected.
This gave me the opportunity to cut out the bad area of tubing and replace it with some T45 tubing.
Then just a bit of metal glue applied using the TIG welder.
As the rear mudguard is of Indian origin I think I will fit the rear wheel and build the structure over the wheel to avoid any contact with the tyre.
Ah, tyres! Thats another thing to try and make my mind up over.
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
Progress is slower than I hoped, I have a pair of useable wheels. I just needed to get rid of some silver paint splashed over them.
Many ideas were tried, each better at removing the wrong paint. In the end I left them soaking in the ultrasonic clearer allowing the heat to soften the paint. The wheels proved to have been painted many times in many colours. Still unhappy with the results I think I'll have to upgrade the bead blaster and remove the final traces of paint and rust.
So much for a short cut to getting it on the road faster.
I will epoxy prime these and paint with a semigloss 2k paint.
Being premature I even have German tyres for it now. (made in china I expect)
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
Finally, after a very long wait my forged M20 pistons turned up.
The complete assembly, piston, rings, clip and pin weight 457 grams.
This will allow me to repair and dynamically balance my crankshaft.
If anyone wants a high-quality standard size (82mm) piston kit, we have them in stock.
I'm out of M20/M21 cylinder liners at the moment so I will machine some spares.
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
A slight change of direction, in an attempt to make more space in the workshop I thought I'd make another attempt at resolving my wheel hub problems .
Rear wheel first.
The first problem of the expensive wheel bearings has been solved for everyone.
https://pesltd.uk/?product=26-6890
I now have the correct size brake drum felt 15-7059. 15-7048 remains a problem with all the versions I have purchased being wrong. Fortunately I had a used good one. Remember it's only on the front hub that the felt goes inside the oil retaining cap.
My pan head screws 24-7065 are a little long, so I'll source some better ones.
Please excuse the paint, I will deal with that later. Having all the parts laid out makes it so much easier to assemble.
Front wheel next.
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
Thanks for your kind words Mark.
Sunday was dry, so no playing with bikes. Bricklaying took priority :(
The front wheel was not much better than the rear, many NOS parts not really fit for purpose and again no felt washers the correct size.
My front hub was the first victim of my modified taper roller bearings. Typical the housing was over size and the outer ring was loose. Fortunately I was able to make an oversize one to take up the slack.
Everything bolted together in the end with the only horror being the outer wheel nuts. Aftermarket ones. Looking good, but not fitting.
I guess I'll make some that fit.
I can't see the brake plates causing trouble, but time will tell. I'll ask my man about bonding the lining on, as if he can it will give a better brake.
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com