I've been working on fitting my Jiffy stand over the last couple of days. Thanks to Rob Miller for the loan of his to get a few cast (all gone) and some pictures via Rob and Henk. I have no measurements, so have made it up the best I can by trial and error.
Although I'll be able to work something out, I wondered if anyone has any clues as to how the stops are for the stand in the up and down positions? Cheers Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Some more fiddling today. In between answering the phone and entertaining mates with Tea and Rocky Biscuits. Drilled and tapped the pivot bolt for a grease nipple and cross drilled it. The next session, I'll work out the best position for the leg to stop at when it's down. Then lower the bike down onto it's tyre to see if it works. Before final fettling, stripping and painting. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
It took a fair bit of experimentation to get everything right when I fitted a side stand to my rigid B33...The correct raised and lowered 'stop' positions, the right tension on the spring, both in the raised and lowered position and as it moved through its arc of movement..Also, crucially, the right angle and length so the bike is stable under all conditions when on the stand...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Here is another take on a side stand, sidecar rear frame only. Its a simple bracket from the side car lug casting hole to the brake pedal pivot point. You can then bolt a Suzuki side stand to this bracket without any alteration to the frame or the stand. These stands complete with flat fixing bracket and return springs are common on eBay for about a tenner. Bike is my 1946 M33 makes it so much easier at fuel stations and short stops, very stable too but not for the rivet counter.
Well I'm pleased with the result so far. It works perfectly on the level floor of the workshop. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com