Hi, I have just purchased a 1949 M20 (sorry not a WD query) and I have a question relating to the serial number on the frame, it is ZM20T1188, I cannot find any reference to the Letter T on any BSA model, just wondering if anyone knows what it means? Additionally I would like to know if there is a BSA parts supplier in the UK similar to Hitchcocks UK, I used them for parts for a Royal Enfield 1940 WD/c which I have just restored , their site was amazing. Also would like to thank Ron Pier for publishing online his restoration of a UK WD/C it was truly inspiring.
Regards
Geoff (Australia)
email (option): geoffwithers8@bigpond.com
Thanks for the compliment Geoff. I'm pleased it was helpful. Post war is not my era, but I wonder if the T is for Telescopic forks? No doubt Ian or someone will be along to confirm.
Although Hitchcocks are hard to beat for service, advice a parts availability, we do have Draganfly Motorcycles with a decent website and handy parts lists, but with parts supply that leaves a bit to be desired. (I would avoid their back order system! I don't know why on Earth they offer it?) https://draganfly.co.uk/
But there are other good BSA dealers if you do a Google search....Like C&D Autos for instance.
Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
As Ron says, C&D Autos...Also, Kidderminster Motorcycles, Draganfly if your an optimist and Russell Motors as many WD bits will fit the later engine and gearbox...
I don't recall ever seeing a 'T' in the frame number..However, I note you are in Australia and BSA were big sellers to fleet users and others...It may be the 'T' is peculiar to the Australian market or a specific user in that market...
Tele forks were fitted from part way through the 1947 model year (June)so if its year of manufacture (as opposed to its year of registration) is 1949 that would rule out a specific marking for that reason I'd have thought...Does it have the late heavyweight gearbox as fitted to later rigid and plunger models?...and is it a rigid or plunger frame?...
The 'changeover' models that were first fitted with tele forks did have, for 3 months, some interesting differences from both earlier and later models and a stamping at that time to denote telescopic forks is a possibility...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I looked up some numbers and interestingly the 1946 C10 did have a 'T' in the frame number to denote tele forks when these were used but some were still girder equipped in the same year...
That situation only applied to 1947 for the M Series bikes...A frame prefix of 'Z' with a number 1188 puts your bike into the 1949 production year when all the M Series models were fitted with tele forks...M Series models used the 'Z' prefix right through to the end of 1952..1950 started at ZM20 7001...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I should have noted that although both teles and girders were fitted in '47 to the M Series bikes the 'T' is not listed as being used in that year...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi Ian, thanks for the research, much appreciated, another little thing I have found when stripping down the engine, it does not have a valve lifter, its blocked off, when the engine is fully assembled you cannot kick start it, its like its locked, but does kick over if the spark plug is removed, is this normal? the bike has been running, it has a new piston 020 over and a rebore, so how did they start it? 3rd gear and push maybe. By the way it is a rigid frame.The C& D autos you mentioned , can you please give me an address as there are lots of C&D motors listed Regards
Geoff
email (option): geoffwithers8@bigpond.com
Geoff you'd be better to reinstall a valve lifter. You wont do you or the bike any good without it:white_frowning_face:
https://www.yell.com/biz/c-and-d-autos-b-s-a-spares-henley-in-arden-4732149/
Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Because we do not have log books in OZ it is a very common practice when rebirthing a motorcycle that does not have a clear & clean provenance to add another letter to the engine & / frame number
An M20 with the numbers Zm20 78096 would come up as stolen but the same bike with a number ZM20T 78096 would not come up as stolen ( or written off ) .
Way way back, several one make clubs covering defunct makes did offer out services for verification of authentic engine & frame numbers and we were told basically to piss off .
At that time over 500 bikes a month were being stolen and a lot of them were being rebirthed by doing as per above
One who was a little suspicious might think there was som sort of offical protection for bike rebirthing gangs but of wcourse we know NSW police & DMT staff are well above those sorts of practices.
I have been the Permits Secretary , then Club Registrar & currently the Responsible Person for the BSA MCC of NSW in since 1980 when we were firt allowed access to club plates.
Back then very common to find an altered number.
Even now I get 1 or 2 a year that are dubious.
Thanks WM20, that certainly makes sense, Im in FNQ, and will put it on club rego when restored.
email (option): geoffwithers8@bigpond.com
Thanks Ron, yes I will certainly be adding a valve lifter during resto. My bike has an alloy head, a few broken fins, would you leave the alloy or replace with a steel head?
email (option): geoffwithers8@bigpond.com
Story is the same in Qld.
Prior to the East Coast networking it was common to steal a vehicle in Victoria, modify the numbers by adding some numbers or letters then doing a new registration in Qld followed by exporting to NZ from NSW .
Get the bike running first and put it on plates while ou are chasing upthemissing bits of body work
Ride it round for a year or so to identify any major mechanical problems that need to be sorted out.
Once the bike is a reliable runner then strip the tinwear down & do the cosmetics.
Nothing wreckes beautiful paint work faster than ripping out the engine 3 times & the gear box twice.