I've fitted 3-4 DVR2's now Ian. They are the only ones I trust. They fit nicely inside an MCR1 unit. I solder the four wires to the original posts within and the loom wires FADE fit as normal. Ron
I use the injun repro regs, just gut them and fit a electronic reg inside,then chop the cap and clip to make it look like a MRC1, In my opinion best use for these regs....
I've got one of the old Sean Hawker Dyno-Tecs and use mini-Lucars slipped on to the existing tags once the original wires have been de-soldered.
Wartime machines up until at least March 1942 should correctly have the 'Lead-Acid' marking on the base to differentiate them from the pre-war Ni-Fe regs.
I'm still interested to see photos of original 'movements' and bases before they're gutted for electronic to see if this date can be pushed further or if a definitive month can be pinned down for the commencement of the later type. At present, I have a gap through until November 1943.
...so the two photos that I found show the reverse. Your job, Jan...should you choose to accept it is to design and make the appropriate tooling :laughing:
My bike came in a load of boxes total basket case and had 2 MCR2s , when I have offered both them up to the rear mudguard the base seems very wide, I was just wondering if anyone could give me the dimensions so I could check it and make sure it is at least the sane size as a mcr1 also correct height of the lid so I could cut my MCR2 down and put a DVr2 inside.
The MCR2 regulator is not only taller it is also bigger in the other two dimensions. You can actually force an MCR1 lid inside an MCR2 lid, and the MCR2 lid usually has a bulge on one side.
Ron
If you take an MCR2 base and carefully file along all four sides and radius the corners of the Bakelite plate the coils are mounted on you can fit the correct MCR1 lid and clip...I've bought the lids only at jumbles and the clip can be made from a stainless steel tig welding rod.....Ian