Your carb is a 276, so providing the body is not too worn? can easily be reconfigured by ordering the correct new parts from Amal/ Surrey Cycles or Hitchcocks. The top is wrong as the choke/air is operated by cable at the handlebar. The (long) bottom nut is wrong and the float bowl is angled and should be straight. You can of course buy a complete new carb from one of the three firms mentioned (I much prefer the service from Hitchcocks).
Carb spec is 276C/1B

Your twistgrip looks like a modern Doherty (which I wouldn't want to use) and should be a period Amal. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

G'day Wade and welcome. Not sure why your Postimage photos are not displaying? Clicking on a link takes me to the Postimage sign up page.

Hi Wade
why not put the pictures upon your website and link to that? You could keep us up to date on your progress with the bike then as well.

cheers
Pete

The best thing is to start here on the forum with the frame and engine number...That will determine the year of manufacture and contract that the bike was built under...From there a specification can be determined and you can then deduce what you have and haven't got...

One clear photo of each side of the bike will serve for an initial assessment of its condition etc...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Santa (me) was good to me this christmas.

Fresh in from the UK... Some NOS and some not so NOS... Rebuilt speedo and drive.

Of course the levers werent what I was expecting... Two clutch levers ... Now I have three since one came on the handle bars too.... The parts from the UK arrived in a week but the handle bars from WI took 2 months via the post office.... But I am happy with everything and the UK guy said he will find me a brake lever






































































Nice seat cover for a seat that I dont have yet







Got an extra tool roll for my B33 project as well .

email (option): wadeschields@gmail.com

Looks like you've been doing some shopping with Stuart.

Just so you know, the wartime clutch and brake levers are the same part number, so one is always upside down. Probably the same with the post war levers, but I don't have parts books for those.

Oh and pictures of groups of parts will save a logjam:confused: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Oh thats interesting !! I had planned on using the one upside down till I got the right one but maybe it is the right one... The ones I got are supposed to be post war but what the difference between war and post war ?

I will do fewer photos next time... Sorry I didnt edit them down... Hurrying before the wife kicks me off of the computer ..

Does my new headlight look right... Did they make repops of these or could this one be original?

email (option): wadeschields@gmail.com

Some quite good repro WD headlamps are coming from India and usually in that strange green colour. The inside bulb holder and reflector will give it away.

The standardized Amal levers are solid, not the pressed steel type you have. Here are what they look like. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ok that carb stamped 276FG/1AT has a 7degree bowl as I suspected and was originally fitted to Triumph 1951-53 Thunderbird. I would buy a new 276C/1B as Ron suggested as the internal parts are probably all wrong such as needle jet, main jet and slide. As already pointed out bottom nut and choke are wrong. Bowl if stamped 1AT on the arm connecting to the carb body is also wrong.

email (option): ukcarbsathotmail.com

The correct pillion saddle would be an "Acumen" Long or short version. You would be best to speak to Jan about these on wd.register@gmail.com
Which means the NOS cover you bought is wrong. Below is one of the long versions. The nipple that you asked about by the foot rest is for the front loop of the rear stand spring. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

PS I think you might do better to start a fresh thread with individual questions and pictures to save trolling through this thread which might put others off. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron .. I was thinking the same thing.

email (option): wadeschields@gmail.com