The rear and field stand are there in the pictures, with some extra parts.
Contract number is S1048, and the census number on the tank is indeed C5121777. I don't have more info, ans the bike id not in the postwar Key Cards, that only means it was sold by the army before 1949 or so.
The best thing is to start here on the forum with the frame and engine number...That will determine the year of manufacture and contract that the bike was built under...From there a specification can be determined and you can then deduce what you have and haven't got...
One clear photo of each side of the bike will serve for an initial assessment of its condition etc...Ian
Thanks Everyone !!! Yeah I think the only thing I am missing for the field stand is a nut at the mount and the retaining part for when its in the up position... Need to find out what that looks like and start searching.... Ill look at the carb to see what number that is... If I have the Triumph one will it still run properly ? Would it also be from a War bike?
The carburetter will be fine if the bowl is not on an angle. Stand back from the bike and look and see that the bowl is vertical. If it is not vertical you will have small problems on going around bends as it will starve slightly on one type of bend and be a bit rich on the opposite bends. Had a guy ride a bike for 6 or so years with the wrong angled bowl and wondered why it hesitated on bends but went great on straight roads.
Took some more detailed photos to see what else I need and to be sure I understand things
I need a rear seat but this bracket looks different then what I see on other WM20s ... Are there multiple versions ? Are my brackets wrong?
Here is my tool box .... The paint of my tool box and headlight look shinier and different then the rest of the bike... Wonder if they are repops or just replaced?
And should this screw knob just come off when its undone or should there be a retainer of some kind?
Looks like I will need a wiring harness. No wiring going to the headlight or to the rear light at all.... Is there a good source or should I just make my own?
Along with the seat question above the rear of the bike offers a few mysteries ....
1) This is the way I picked up the bike ... The nuts are barely on ... Wonder how many fell off in transport.... Maybe they are mismatched thread ... Will investigate further as I delve into this project.
2) The loose hex spacers on the panniers are apparently correct but again just hanging there.... Cant believe they didnt fall off... I have two . how many should be there?
3) My pannier on one side has rusted away at the top . I guess that will be a welding repair.
4) I suppose my tail light is a repop since the wiring looks new.
5) And what bodge has been done to my rear mudguard? I have another that came with the bike but not an extra "wing " or what ever the part is called that removes for wheel removal. Does that piece look butchered?
6) Lastly What is the nipple looking thing under the passenger footpeg?
Here is my Carb... It is neither one of the numbers mentioned above ... Anyone know what it is for... I should probably look for the right one ...
Ive order Canvas grips . Will they fit this throttle? The pictures of original ones looks the same without the chrome... Are they the same otherwise though?
Your carb is a 276, so providing the body is not too worn? can easily be reconfigured by ordering the correct new parts from Amal/ Surrey Cycles or Hitchcocks. The top is wrong as the choke/air is operated by cable at the handlebar. The (long) bottom nut is wrong and the float bowl is angled and should be straight. You can of course buy a complete new carb from one of the three firms mentioned (I much prefer the service from Hitchcocks).
Carb spec is 276C/1B
Your twistgrip looks like a modern Doherty (which I wouldn't want to use) and should be a period Amal. Ron
Fresh in from the UK... Some NOS and some not so NOS... Rebuilt speedo and drive.
Of course the levers werent what I was expecting... Two clutch levers ... Now I have three since one came on the handle bars too.... The parts from the UK arrived in a week but the handle bars from WI took 2 months via the post office.... But I am happy with everything and the UK guy said he will find me a brake lever
Nice seat cover for a seat that I dont have yet
Got an extra tool roll for my B33 project as well .
Looks like you've been doing some shopping with Stuart.
Just so you know, the wartime clutch and brake levers are the same part number, so one is always upside down. Probably the same with the post war levers, but I don't have parts books for those.
Oh and pictures of groups of parts will save a logjam:confused: Ron
Looks like you've been doing some shopping with Stuart.
Just so you know, the wartime clutch and brake levers are the same part number, so one is always upside down. Probably the same with the post war levers, but I don't have parts books for those.
Oh and pictures of groups of parts will save a logjam:confused: Ron
Oh thats interesting !! I had planned on using the one upside down till I got the right one but maybe it is the right one... The ones I got are supposed to be post war but what the difference between war and post war ?
I will do fewer photos next time... Sorry I didnt edit them down... Hurrying before the wife kicks me off of the computer ..
Does my new headlight look right... Did they make repops of these or could this one be original?
Some quite good repro WD headlamps are coming from India and usually in that strange green colour. The inside bulb holder and reflector will give it away.
The standardized Amal levers are solid, not the pressed steel type you have. Here are what they look like. Ron
Ok that carb stamped 276FG/1AT has a 7degree bowl as I suspected and was originally fitted to Triumph 1951-53 Thunderbird. I would buy a new 276C/1B as Ron suggested as the internal parts are probably all wrong such as needle jet, main jet and slide. As already pointed out bottom nut and choke are wrong. Bowl if stamped 1AT on the arm connecting to the carb body is also wrong.
The correct pillion saddle would be an "Acumen" Long or short version. You would be best to speak to Jan about these on wd.register@gmail.com
Which means the NOS cover you bought is wrong. Below is one of the long versions. The nipple that you asked about by the foot rest is for the front loop of the rear stand spring. Ron
PS I think you might do better to start a fresh thread with individual questions and pictures to save trolling through this thread which might put others off. Ron